Thanks for all the help to my previous question guys. Mybe I didn't explain myself correctly so I'll try to a better job. If at all possible I still don't want to add lead in the butt if I don't have to.

It seems all float rods have somewhere between a 20"-22" overall grip length. If I keep the reel closer to the butt end with a shorter 4" rear grip and use a single cork ring in front of the reel seat, I accomplish using my reel to help balance the rod since it's closer to the butt. And if those 3 items add up to 9"-10", then if I place the top of a 7" full wells grip at 22", then I have a 5"-6" space (aka my split grip) between my mini-foregrip and the full wells grip where I intend to hold the rod. If the fingers of my right hand are the fulcrum at 20" or so, and the center of the reel is at 6 1/4", then I have almost 14" that my "counter weight" (my reel) is behind my fulcrum. If I use a 10"-12" rear grip, then the center of the reel will be about 7" or so from the fulcrum. I balanced my step son's Dan Craft 10" FT rod by having REC make me an 8" full wells grip. The rod balances perfectly now with that extra inch long grip without any lead in the butt.

I've been shown only one style of casting for a float rod with a center pin reel. In order to cast, create drag by hand, plus fight a Steelhead, do both hands have to be close together or can they be a foot or so apart? If I had asked that question to begin with it may have been a lot easier. Thanks.

Tim

I'm a new at rod building but been float fishing for years, by reading your post it sounds like your going to be using two hands to fish this rod. Most float fishermen will use one hand to hold the rod at the reel and use a finger to place drag on the reel. Rear grip length just depends on what feels good to you, i like mine around 9 inches so when fighting a fish i can brace the rod againest my forearm for support, or when drifting for hours on end i can squeeze the rear grip between my side and elbow to take some of that tip heavy weight off.
I've also seen some people use split fore grips, mostly for looks, not to try to balance out the rod. So what ever feels good and looks good to you will do just fine.

Try this site theres some video's you can down load on casting and techniques. www.questoutdoors.net
and a forum that you can read for days.

Also search this site for float rod questions, you'll find alot of good stuff here as well

Good luck

Phil

Tim...

Paul here again...I have fished a Sage float rod with a short 4-5" rear grip and I would rather fish an "Ugly Stick". Serious. I could not wait to get the rod out of my hands due to the short rear grip.

Like our fellow floater stated above, do what feels good first. I would get the rear grip, reel seat, and reel on the rod then try to see what you like. But, here's the "Reader's digest version....For a 13' footer here is a simple way to get distances that will be comfotable...I promise you..

1. Take the arm that you will be holding the rod in.
2. Take the hand that belongs to the arm that you will be holding the rod in and cock your wrist downward about 40 degrees. (this will take into account the habd in front of the reel and holding it.)
3. Measure the distance from your elbow to your wrist bone. (Outside of your wrist, pinkie side..)
4. Now you have the lenght of your rear grip. You can always adjust it to your liking from here.

Also TIm, I would not get wrapped around the wheel with balacing the rod. No matter what reel you use, (and I have center pins from lightweight to tanks) it will not matter one eye-oda, due to the fact that the rear grip will be near the lenght of the outside of your forearm, or about. Like I said, 8-9" rear grip works great with 13'ers. But I warn ya bro...DO NOT PUT A 4-5" rear grip on it! You will loath it, or get used to and have to endure it until you try a buddies rod with a 8-9" rear grip on it. Then the fun begins when you start kicking yourself in the but for going with the 4-5" rear.

Have fun Tim and let me know how it turns out for ya...But don't get wrapped around the balance thing....

Have a great day and a long drift!!!

Paul

I used to fish for steelhead and salmon almost exclusivley and still do a lot, although mostly with a fly rod. When you master float fishing it is a truly deadly technique. With that being said, I think a 4 inch butt grip is too short. The extra length of the rear grip really helps because you can brace the rod against your forearm when you are fighting a fish and that gives you a ton of control over the fish. When I first began flyfishing I broke a rod fighting a salmon because I held the blank of the rod above the grip and braced the grip against my forearm to gain control over a large fish. One of the nice things about a float rod is that the large rear grip can be braced against your forearm, side, waist, etc. and you can grab the front grip a few inches above the real and you really get control of the fish. With a 13 foot rod and a 4 inch rear grip, fighting a large, powerful fish like a king or a steelhead doesn't give you that extra control, even if it is perfectly balanced. I like short rear grips and use them on ultra light spinning rods because they balance the rod so nicely, but there is a huge difference between a 3 pound smallmouth and a 30 pound king. If I were you, I would temporarily build the grip the way you want with 5 minute epoxy, and then do the same with a larger rear grip and take a few casts and simulate fighting a large fish. A 30 pound salmon or 15 pound steelhead will give you a run for your money, especially with the light line usually used on float rods. If you like your way better, then keep it, it's your rod and you can build and fish it however you want. After you gain more experience however, you may see why most people prefer longer rear grips, if not then keep the rod the way you want it.


Mike Marrone

Tim,

You know, I just don't get the need for the long butt grip. Whenever I have fished with rods that have an extended rear grip, I found it cumbersone and difficult to switch the position of the rod because that darn rear grip keeps hanging up on my shirt/jacket and poking me in the gut. So when I build a rod, I put a short (5") rear grip on, and a long foregrip (11"). This works nicely for me, but again, I am using spinning equipment, and not a centerspin setup. When I am lucky enough to get a good fish on (king, brown, or bow), I slide my right hand up the foregrip and plant the rear grip in my side. My left hand then is free to feather the reel, or to take up line by turn the handle on the reel. With this positioning of the hands on the rod I feel I have complete control (as much as possible) over the fish. I have also done the spit foregrip thing on a 11'6" ultralight rod I use for float fishing, and I have yet to see any advantage to it. But again, I don't see any disadvantages to it either, so do whatever floats your boat (arf).

The only way I can see the need for a long butt grip is if the hand holding the rod is also responsible for controlling the spin or output of line from the reel. This may be the situation with a centerspin outfit. If it is not, then why have the reel positioned where some have suggested it goes, at the end of a long forearm length butt grip? If the hand gripping the rod does not have to be where the reel is 95% of the time, then........

As I am also contemplating building a floatrod for a centerspin reel, please let me know if I am missing the point or not understanding the technique, or if it really is strictly a matter of personal preference.

Dave

Tim, I've read through all of the responses that have been given to you. Everyone has some helpfull tips for you. Generally speaking floatrods are tip heavy by nature. Some of the ways you could balance the rod is by lead weights which was already mentioned but I wouldn't reccomend doing this because it'll make the rod heavier. You could also incorporate a peice of brass into the design of the butt cap on the rod. I had a Loomis IMX wrapped using this method and the rod balances out nicely and the brass is sandwiched between rubber and wood.

Another way you could go is to use guides such as the REC Recoils on the entire rod. The guides are feather light and when used the action of blank after it's wrapped is as close to teh action of teh blank unwrapped as it's ever going to get. When going this route you could also use Permagloss (3-4 coats) and you should also maximize weight savings on the tip section.

As far as handles are concerned, when I'm wrapping my float rods I usually stick the butt section of the rod in the crook of my elbow and then measure from there. I prefer longer butt grips vs the shorter butt grips which you see on most float rods. The reason for this is due to my casting style. I usually hold the rod just aft of the reel and control the spool with my thumb vs my pinkey. I also wallis cast and holding the rod in the fasion I just mentioned makes doing the cast much easier because the rod is balanced accordingly.

I don't know if this is the first float rod you're going to be building. one suggestion I could make is to make a handle of all cork and place the reel where you feel it balances out and feels the best. Take those measurements and use them as guides on other rods you might build.

Good luck,

Randy

DAVE LOURIM...

The action of the blank, guide spacing/sizing, reel seat position, and overall casting and purpose are as different as night and day when you compare spinning rods to float rods. They really share no common denominators except to have fun and catch fish. LOL. I agree that with a spinning rod, need not have magnum long handles, but with float rods 8-9" is the minimum and it goes up from there...

The hand that that you hold the rod in will play a the most important part when the float goes down. When the float goes down, your hand grabs the side of the spool of the reel and you set the hook. So therefore your hand is ALWAYS ahead of the reel and always on the rod. I can see where you could get it confused...I hope this helps ya out...I'm terrible at explaining myself..

Also Dave, if you need some guide spacing for the blanks you may build give me a hollar @ rotkisak@ak.net!!! I'll be more than happy to get ya started down the right path...and you'll know "why" as well..

Long drifts...

Paul