I have run into a problem with Threadmaster.

My advice - build right the first crack out of the box and do not attempt quick repair or modifications. I built a rod on a white Seeker blanks and used the Threadmaster because it was so clear. I have had to cut the blank back and reposition some of the guides. Most people will tell you that the thread finishes are not an adhesive and can be easily removed from the surface of a blank. Well that is not the case all the time! The finish was only 10 days old!

Where I formed an edge on the white blank at the end of the guide wraps there is a little ring of finish that is attached to the finish on the blank. I will now change the word attached to bonded to the finish on the blank. I have heated to the point of burning, scraped, picked, scotchbrited, sanded and cursed trying to completely remove the little edge rings of finish. When it does come completely off it brings some of the Seeker top coating with it! I was trying to completely remove it so the next underwrap would lay completely flat. I finally got the surface level enough for the overwrap it by completely sanding through the ring with a 800 sanding stick.

This is the first time I have tried to break down a rod finished with Threadmaster and really found a tight tight bond at all critical points. The only way that it would come off the bottom of the guide foot tunnel is to set it on fire and burn it off. He must be sitting in his shop in Tejas laughing his (blank) off!

Gon Fishn





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/30/2006 09:14AM by Bill Stevens.

Not a bad feature because generally, we don't build rods with the idea that we'll soon be removing the guides and repositioning them. Most of the work we do when building a rod should be considered permanent. Sounds like ThreadMaster is just that.

.........

Bill - Curiously did you use CP?

Guides get damaged due to handling, etc, and need to be replaced sometimes so I list "removability" as a key characteristic of the finished item (along with durablitly, clarity, etc, etc). I've only used one finish other than TM, and it seems easier to remove if I used CP.

Did you try rubbing with a rag dampened with acetone while rotating the rod?
It worked for me, but it was a factory rod.


Dan Hogan
The only way to have a friend, is to be one.

CP is well hidden in shop - Red Electra Metallic with Metallic Silver Inlays and Black Nylon Double Wrap - no need to tear the shop up looking for the stuff! I am glad the guide tunnels were filled with Threadmaster instead of CP. When I unwrapped the guides by taking all the nylon off I banged the guides with a hammer and they stayed in place until I heated with a torch to get them loose. When you looked at the bottom of the guide feet you could see the imprint of the underwrap in the finish stuck to the frame of the guide. I had the same type of problems which are similar to tearing down a tuna stick that had been put together with Glass Coat. This finish bonds to the things we use to build strong rods. It does not easily peel off surfaces.

Bill,

I had the same "problem" when trying to remove a wrap over which I had applied Threadmaster epoxy. I tried all of the above mentioned remedies but couldn't get that last little bit of the edge to remove completely. I finally got enough of it off that could re-wrap and just extended the new wrap a fraction of an inch more to hide the edges of the old one and it was fine.

If you want to call it a downside to using Threadmaster, then I guess this may be it. I was very impressed with how well the guide foot and threads were bonded to the blank. I don't know if that bond is as strong over CP (I suspect that it's probably a bit weaker). I've used two epoxies extensively, Flexcoat and LS Sureme, and like them both very much - LS Supreme being my most recent favorite. I picked up some Threadmaster from Andy at the show just to try it and I love the stuff. I became an immediate fan. After trying to remove it I now have additonal incentive to make sure everything's exactly right before applying Threadmaster because it's a bugger to get off - and that's probably a good thing.

Bill,

My experience has told me to use CP even on metallic thread. That way when I foul up, it is easier to remove. Granted, CP is not needed on metallic thread! (Unless you have everthing perfect the first time) Gudebrod sets up on top of the thread better than most and prevents penitration.
This does not apply to Diamonite! It is not epoxy but a PVA/urethane polymer. It is difficult to impossible to get clean removeal of this finish! I told Tim Campbell in Charlotte that i was going to pick this stuff appart and I now know the basic chemistry behind Diamonite. It is a totally different animal than any of the other finishes on the market. (I can even mix acrylic pigments with Diamonite) But heaven forbid if you have foul up. Some time I think I am more fouled up because of all my experiments.

Been fishing for two weeks. Going back Friday for two more.

Ed Smith