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cork grip
Posted by: Mike Marrone (---.kntnny.adelphia.net)
Date: May 26, 2006 10:16AM

I am building a 5 foot fiberglass ultra light rod as a gift. The blank was about 7 dollars, I purchased some relativley cheap cork and burl cork and am planning on turning my own grip for the first time. I think I have it down on how to make the grip (rod bond both ends of the cork, scrape as much off as I can and clamp tight). My question is if I should do the cork on a mandrel (for me it will be a spare rod blank) or since the blank is so cheap if I should try and do it right on the blank. I don't have a lathe so it will be turned on a drill temporarily modified for this situation. My main concern about turning it on a scrap piece of blank is that I would break the grip when I try and remove it (What type of wax, and how much should I apply to try and keep the grip in one piece). My concern on the blank is that I would break the blank, but really its not that big a deal because of the price. What option would you guys suggest? Also I purchased a small spool of two color guidebroad metallic thread (red and gold). I have never used it, or heard too much about it and plan on using it for trim wraps and in the butt wrap. I just bought it because I liked the way it looked, anyone use it and like it / dislike it?

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.250.36.143.Dial1.Weehawken1.Level3.net)
Date: May 26, 2006 10:41AM

I find it easy to put the cork on a threaded rod, and use two large washers then two smaller ones. One on each side. To tighten I use wing nuts. When it is dry loosen one nut and tighten the other, it will push the cork loose from the rod. I have never needed any wax.
Then I also use a scrap blank and find one that fits the cork. There is a taper so reaming the glued cork to fit the scrap is necessary. Masking tape also helps to make it tight for turning. Then fit in the drill.
I usually use metallics for trim and regular nylon for the main wrap. Color combinations are endless.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2006 10:43AM by bill boettcher.

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: Ellis Mendiola (---.dsl.hstntx.sbcglobal.net)
Date: May 26, 2006 10:41AM

Mike,
You can use candle wax or parafin that you can get at the grocery store in the canning department. Some fellows use long threaded rods as mandrels. They put a washer and wing nut on each end of the grip and chuck the rod into the drill. I have done it like that before I got my lathe. Be sure that you cut a small piece of sandwich bag plastic and put it in between the washer and cork to keep the washer from sticking to the cork. Since I have never used Rod Bond, I can't say anything about using it for grips. I am going to start using Rod Bond for installing the finished grips and reel seats as soon as I run out of what I am now using.

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: Robert crabtree (---.iad.untd.com)
Date: May 26, 2006 10:42AM

your best bet would be to get some 1/4 inch round stock at a local hardware store... it will be alot easier plus its pretty cheap. dont use wax what i do i pull it out after im done glueing wipe clean then put it back in and turn it every now and then to make sure it is not sticking.......everyone has there own way of doing grips but i found this to be the best for me...............tight wraps..........Rob

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: Mike Marrone (---.kntnny.adelphia.net)
Date: May 26, 2006 11:21AM

Thanks for the advice fellas. I think I am going to make the grip on the threaded rod, put the threaded rod into my drill (when dry), turn the cork on the threaded rod, pop off the grips when they are done and then rod bond the finished product directly on my blank. Does this sound like a plan or am i missing anything? Also to open another can of worms, I was going to make the last ring in the rear grip burl cork. Would I be able to fill the hole left at the bottom from the blank with some sort of rod bond and cork dust mixture and have it look ok (similar to patching pits in the cork only at a larger scale). Thanks again for all the help.

Mike Marrone

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: Ron Schneider (---.fv.dl.cox.net)
Date: May 26, 2006 11:51AM

Hi Mike,
All that you say should work just fine.
On the butt end, the epoxy and cork dust will work, but you may want to try something else.
Try a colored 1/4" bead with the holes to the side so they do not show.
I've used various colors, sometimes matching thread color, other times a Gold, Silver, or Pearl, which looks like a jewel is set in there.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

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Re: cork grip
Posted by: Randy Parpart (Putter) (---.propel.com)
Date: May 26, 2006 01:16PM

When you apply the Rod Bond, be careful to keep it away from the center of the hole if you use a mandrel. That and canning wax on the mandrel will keep it from sticking on you.

The red and gold Gudebrod works just fine; the red in this "Trimar" thread is NCP (doesn't need color preserver) and is strong as heck; good for guide wraps and all. The gold is a metallic sheath spiralled around the red NCP thread.

On that 1/4" hole in the last burl ring? I use a 7 mag rifle brass (.284"), punch out a colored piece of craft foam (color to match the rod's color scheme) and rod bond it in the hole. I'm like Ron and don't even try to match the color anymore. A red one to go with that Trimar????

Putter
Williston, ND

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