Ok, this will be the rookie question of the day...
Why is epoxy used when assembling a reel seat, cork grips, eva etc., instead of a product like Liquid Nails, Marine Goop, etc. Both of these product flex and "BOND" anything together forever!

I use epoxy for ONE reason. That is what I started with and it works so I dont fix what aint broken but I see no reason why you shouldnt try one of the products and maybe let us old dogs know if it works or not. Information is power. (I stole that from somewhere)

Clean up might be a little harder especially with the liquid nails.

As a fellow "newbie" and an infamous "kitchen sink" rodbuilder, I say "go for it" you may discover the next good thing. Years ago, sewing thread was a strict no-no, now even board sponsors are getting on board.

Long live the spirit of discovery and experimentation.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

I agree with Steve on the cleanup and I definately agree with Doc about "why fix it" I just can't imagine anything easier or better than Rod Bond which was specifically formulated for rod building

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

All of your logic sounds good to me. I think I will try "GOOP MARINE GRADE" on the next rod. I will let ya guys know how it turns out. The product is waterproof, flexible, and bonds anyhting and everything...Thanks you guys!!!

Paul

Not sure what MARINE GOOP is, but unless it is an epoxy it won't get hard. It will be more like a vibration damper in the reel seat.
That goes for Liquid Nails also.


Dan Hogan
The only way to have a friend, is to be one.

Marine Goop is not a good product for this!!!!!!! It's soft and rubbery for filling holes and leaks and that type stuff. It's a lot like silicon rubber. 2 Part epoxy is the product of choice for assembling permanent real seat and handle parts on a fishing rod.

Another reason Epoxy is used, is because it is chemically cured. Most glues that are not a two part mixtures were mixing creates the curing process are cured by evaporation. Two things happen in this process.
!- the evaporating causes a shrinkage in the glue allowing gaps in the joints
2- because the materials used in the rod are not porous, and create air proof joints. The glue can take a very long time to cure out. Allowing unwanted movement of the parts.

The only exception the shrinkage problem I’m aware of, is Gorilla glue which foams as it dries creating expansion. But still needs air and water to cure. Also that expanding is more of a foaming which also can create other problems
1-pushing things apart
2-the cured foam acts as a deadening agent robbing the end user of feel.

I would take credit for this vast wisdom, But I read most of it out of Dale Clemons book “Advanced Rod Building”
The part about Gorilla glue is from personal experience.

I am not gonna argue against the spirit of discovery; nor against necessity being the mother of invention; nor against dire straits invoking the "field imperative".

But if any of us are gonna re-invent the wheel by such executive decision, do what you can to incorporate into the process the luxury of running an IDENTICAL (or at least a similar) MATERIALS TEST on a completely DISPOSABLE TEST SUBJECT.

For a reel seat, that would include any inexpensive metal or graphite reel seat, and any inexpensive, short-section of fiberglass rod blank, plus the experimental adhesive of choice.

After the experimental glue has cured to your satisfaction, give the glue bond some serious testing with a pair of channel-lock pliers. Torque it until it squeals. Then bake it with a heat gun to ~ 140 degrees Fahrenheit and see if it will survive your car's dash board or a closed in-deck rod locker in direct sunlight. TEST to FAILURE, or to the extreme of reasonable conditions. Do an autopsy with a hack saw and see exactly how well it filled the ID-OD gap, and your application technique worked.

If you make your next rod project the experimental subject ("guinea pig") rather than some disposable test materials, you will only have yourself to blame if things go wrong - 2 days or 2 years later. ...

So, if the materials & the technique are un-proven in your hands, I'd say:

"Rod-Builder's Advisory is in effect. Proceed with caution.
Hazards to your rod-building sanity may lay ahead."

Caveat Emptor! Better safe than sorry, ...
IMO, -Cliff Hall+++, FL-USA*****



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2006 10:33AM by Cliff Hall.

Rod bond is what you want. Long curing time , easy to mix (just eyeball equal parts) so you move parts, easy clean up (denatured alcohol) and it doesn't dry completely rock hard, there's a slight amount of flex.

FYI: all Goop (Marine, plumbing, ShoeGoo, etc.) products are the same, just different names and prices

Cliff,

I like your school of thought-test firt on some junk, then analyze it. Thanks for all the info you guys, this rookie was just thinking one night at the fire station, (it was slow) and wondered why? But, like many of you perhaps think, if it is not done, it must be for a reason. Have a great day gents...

Paul

Paul,

Rod Bond is the current product of choice, IMO. It's the best yet and easy to use. You'd probably want to do experiments on disposibale blanks to determine effects of time, exposure to temps/sun, etc. of any alternative bonding material, though other epoxy items also apparently work well. A chemical bonding is probably better than an adhesive that cures by evaporation, for rodbuilding applications. Works well on aerospace applications. Ask Ralph O'Quinn, an expert in adhesives for extreme use..
Stan