To date all my rods have been wrapped with NCP or nylon with no CP. I have a bottle of the Gudebrod 811 CP and it says "thin with alcohol - clean up with water"

Having never used CP before, how thin do you want it? It is about like cold maple syrup at the moment. Also, do in need more than one coat? And how long do I need to wait to apply the second coat or finish?

I searched but didn't find the answer to thinning or drying time for this product.

Thanks,

Keith

"I searched, but didn't find the answer to thinning or drying time for this product." Keith Neidhart - CHECK YOUR E-MAIL. -Cliff Hall+++

RBO SEARCH = CP 811 [ALL DATES; MSSG BODY + TITLE]
Returned 434 Results, covering 15 Pages ... !!!
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Drying time varies with temperature and amount applied. Only 2 hours between the first and second coat may work. May need more like 6-12 hours in a cold damp room, or stagnant humid air. Wait at least 12-24 hours after the 2nd coat of CP is dry before applying your Thread Finish.

Diluent for Gudebrod CP-811 can be straight De-Natured Alcohol; or a pre-mixed combination of (50% D-NA + 50% ACETONE); or straight Acetone (IF and ONLY IF the rod blank is impervious to Acetone and your thread / colors are unaffected by Acetone). Add the Diluent to your CP-811, to consistency. Hopefully, this will be less than 20% of the volume of your CP-811. WATER is the WORST diluent for CP-811. Using NO diluent at all for your CP is generally preferred.

Good Luck, Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****

When they say "thin with alcohol" they mean if necessary. I try to avoid thinning anything that I put on a rod unless I have to. I much prefer using products as they were intended by the manufacturer to be used. 811 is a good CP but it is inconsistant in it's viscosity. I have gotten a bottle that was just to thick to soak in and had to be diluted with a small amount of alcohol. Keep in mind that CP is a solid in suspension. by diluting it, you REDUCE the amount of CP solids that available to do the job. Cliff's right on with the times

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Apparently I forgot to choose "all dates" in my searching... duley noted!

I did try a test of the CP on a scrap but it is just too thick to be absorbed as it is, which was why I asked how thin it should be...

"Keep in mind that CP is a solid in suspension. by diluting it, you REDUCE the amount of CP solids that available to do the job"

I understand that but if it's too thick to be absorbed, it can't work either, right? So my question still stands... how thick or thin should it be?

After reading the searched results in Cliff's link... I think I'll just wait until Andy's CP is ready. If you guys are getting inconsistent results, I can only imagine what I'll end up with. ...lol

Thanks for the info, you probably saved me from screwing up this rod.

-keith

Keith

I have used the 811 CP with inconsistent results also. I bought some Glass Coat CP...and problem solved. Goes on easy, nail polish consistency, decent color retention, and less cussing!!!

Rog

Glass Coat CP - may no longer be available, or only in limited hit-or-miss supply. Any news on this Glass Coat CP or Epoxy Thread Finish availability? I thought Bingham Enterpiises was the last Vendor - Any updates, fellas? Thanks, Cliff+++


Re: My last 2 queries RE: glasscoat and threadmaster.
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator) ... March 8, 2006 12:27PM
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Glass Coat is history. The company never liked dealing with rod builders in the first place.

Re: Glasscoat availability ... Tom Kirkman (Moderator) ... March 3, 2006
[www.rodbuilding.org]
"The folks at GlassCoat were never high on the custom rod market. Not enough quantity to suit them. It was a good product, but as far as I know, no longer available. Bingham may have some left." -TK.