ABSOLUTELY - S.O.P.
Or just use no thead shim at all, for less than one-half a tip size, if the fit does not wobble too much. -Cliff Hall+++
P.S. - When winding on the thread shim, better to wind the thread with a uniform GAP between adjacent threads. Like the red stripe of a candy cane on a white rod blank. This allows more epoxy to adhere DIRECTLY to the ROD BLANK. ...
NEVER bother putting Color Preserver on any thread used as a shim on a rod tip under your tip-top, nor on thread used as a shim on the rod blank under a reel seat. Let the epoxy reach plenty of rod blank. If the epoxy viscosity is low enough, it will soak thru the thread onto the rod blank, which is good.
Remember to lightly scuff the rod blank to a textured "water break free" surface, before you apply your epoxy to each of the two parts to be joined. Inside the tip-top tube, you may need to use a jeweler's file or tiny rat-tail (round) file. Inside a reel seat, you can use a regular round file, or even a triangle file if you ROTATE the barrel over the corners.
If you don't know what a "water break free" surface is, you need to read Ralph O'Quinn's RMM-5(2) Library Article and LOOK at the PICTURE:
SURFACE PREPARATION by Ralph O'Quinn. RMM-5(2).
Originally appeared in RodMaker Magazine, Volume 5, Issue # 2.
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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2006 09:05PM by Cliff Hall.
