and it seems that I do EVERYTHING wrong! But - I get good results.

I mix my epoxy in a mixing cup, and I measure by eye. I do mix a minimum of 5 cc's of each though to help compensate for a less accurate mix.

I use a stainless thread pick to mix with. It's never let me down. I use this same thread pic as a spatula.

I dilute my first coat of epoxy with MEK by about 10%. I do use a brush to apply this first thin coat.

I also flame my wraps. I mean really flame them. I put on enough epoxy that it's dripping off, then I flame the heck out of it until it's so thin it HAS to soak into the threads. I put the flame of the alcohol burner right on the wrap so the flames are comeing off both sides of the blank. Granted, I'm moveing it the whole time, but the flame definately touches the wrap - every one, every time.

It's my system, and it works for me. I've tried them all and this one gives me good results every time. No fish eyes EVER, fully penetrated threads, and a dead level finish that is never tacky. Wrong or not, it works.

Clyde, I enjoy reading your posts. I think we finish about the same way. I eyeball the mix, mix the crap out of it, slop it on, then blast it with my heat gun. Sometimes I blow the finish all over the work bench. I do on occasion get a fish eye, so now I think you've convinced me to go with some sort of torch......I think I've got a little pyro in me anyway. Maybe some sort of self-igniting trigger deal......it'll be like shooting the epoxy into submission.

Dont feel like the lone ranger Clyde. I have been doing it the same way you do it for many, many yearsexcept I use acetone instead of MEK and I mix(ver slowly) with the brush. If it works I guess it aint broken. By the way guys I am back for a few days and will try to catch up.

I use a mid-temp lacquer thinner. Tried several other things did not like how it worked. Don't need no stikin foil, I put just enough in to get rid of the bubbles. Wet it down wipe off the drips, hand turn maybe 4 times, then a slow turner. ThreadMaster. Nice stuff.

Welcome back Doc

If you get good results by adding thinners or solvents, and by heating your epoxy, I'm certainly not going to tell you (or anyone) to stop. Once you find a method that works to your satisfaction, you should stick with it.

Having said that, I do want to let the newer builders who might be looking in to know that you can get an absolutely perfect finish with any of these epoxies without adding a solvent and without using any heat whatsoever. Personally, being lazy, I take the approach that not only gives me the best and most repeatable results, but those which are easiest and require the fewest steps.

................

I find it hard to believe you are lazy Tom.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I guess this shows there are a lot of ways to skin this cat. I don't do any radical stuff, like thinning or flaming, just try to follow the instructions. Pour out onto a foil, then blow the bobbles out with a straw. I almost never mix the recommended 3cc, though. I try to be real accurate with the syringes. So far, not a single problem. Except, when I try to do a long span and the temp in my basement is not high enough. Bought a cheap wall thermometer, and was surprised that it stays around 62 down there. So now, I fire up the kerosene heater every time I do epoxy, and no more leveling problems.
Steve Broadwell

Good Morning folks (12:05 AM PDT),
Here I am reading the rod forum at this time of the "night"--I really do need to get a life. I am not new to rod building (first rod in 1959), but new to applying epoxy and Perma Gloss. Joe Kassuba was kind enough to show me his method of applying epoxy and I have been emulating that. I still need more practice before I use it for a customer. I have had some bad experiences--the chuck on the rod dryer came loose and the epoxy had not completely set with the resulting washboard (I told you I was old).

What I find interesting is the large variation in methods. In my mind the use of flame directly on the epoxy would be a dire process. I don't see how you can keep from overheating both the epoxy and the blank. I think there ought to be an analysis of what is occuring to determine the factors that are common to all of these methods.

The last issue of Rodmaker on this topic was interesting, but I still have trouble deciding what is a sufficient amount of epoxy. I tend to add too much and then spend time (too much) wicking away the excess as it sags to the bottom. My wraps are okay, it is the long decorative/signature area on the butt section that is still giving me some trouble. I apply the epoxy for the wraps while the rod lathe is turning about 30-50 RPM. When I do the butt I apply the epoxy along the length of the blank while it is still and hand rotate it until I have the area covered. I then let it sag and wick off. Then I rotate until dry.

I have found that rotating the rod while applying Perma Gloss to the wraps works very well. I still have trouble with Perma Gloss setting up too quickly. I suspect that the humidity is too high in my basement workshop. I am doing a new test run in the later morning. Hopefully I will get id done nicely this time.

Take care folks,

Mike Blomme

Oh yeah, no foil for me either. Just apply straight from the cup.

The flame I use is very "soft". It's an alcohol lamp, and I'm constantly moveing it along the length of the wrap so it doesn't get too hot. There are some epoxies that I cannot use, LS Supreme for one, because if you get a flame within 3 feet of that stuff and it boils! Aftcote and Classic Coat work well for me and my flames.

I was just trying to show that you can do things differently, and still get good results. I think too many newbies get caught up trying to do things exactly as they read them either here or somewhere else. Experiment, practice, and eventually you'll find something that works for you.

Yes Clyde,

And it's been driving me nuts.

Mike O.

I just finished my first rod with LS Supreme, and Clyde is right, it is VERY sensitive to heat. I had a few stubborn bubbles and I used an alcohol torch and got a little too close. It boiled quickly. Oh well, it was a lesson learned, and it STILL looks better than 90% of my commercial rods!! I can't wait to get started on my next one!!

Well said by all posters on this most talked about subject. Now, let me add my two cents worth. Onward through the fog!
Regards, Jerry Springs

Re: LS Supreme

I guess the definition of "too much heat" may vary. I've been using LS Supreme for several years and like the results that I get. I know that it's recommended not to flame it but I do and with good results. I spread it on foil after mixing and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes to allow the bubbles to escape. After applying it to the wraps with a spatula, if there's a bubble that I can't seem to get out using another method, I simply hold a butane lighter near the wrap. I wave the flame back and forth a bit just a inch or so to the side of the bubble so the heat doesn't become to concentrated in one one area and never allow the flame to touch the epoxy. The bubble will disappear and the finish will not boil. I guess some may call this low or moderate heat and perhaps it is; I just wanted to point out that LS Supreme can be flamed with good results if you're careful not to overcook it.

That said, I picked up some of Andy's Threadmaster at the show in Charlotte and, man, that stuff is terrific!