I am getting ready to finish a rod, and have just gotten a dryer (4rpm).
I have both FlexCoat lite and heavy build finish.
It's a 6.5' walleye rod- and this will be my first time using a dryer. The other 2 rods I have build look good but without the use of a dryer (and my inexperience of course) there are some "footballs"
I'd appreciate some tips- recommendations on lite or heavy finish? Should I get the rod running on the dryer immediately after the first coat is complete? Wait a while?
Thanks,
Doug

Footballs usually aren't a product of your drying method or the type of finish you use. It is a result of applying too much finish. Whatever method you decide to use to 'dry' your finish you must first remove all the excess epoxy that you applied. An easy method of doing this is to not turn the rod at all leaving the guides pointing up. Apply your epoxy to all the guides and let it sit. Be sure to have some aluminum foil under the length of the rod as you will most likely have some drips. After a minute or so you will surely notice your epoxy is sagging and possibly dripping. This is good because all those sags and drips are epoxy you didn't need on the wraps (that would have turned into footballs as it cured). Take a brush or spatula and wick the sags from the bottom of the wraps. I like to let it sit another minute or so and repeat the wicking process. Then turn the rod 180 with the guide pointing down. Wait a couple of minutes and remove any sags that appear during that time. Now you should be ready to turn on the dryer. Footballs 'should' be a thing of the past. Good luck!

Jay

Ditto!
Also, a thin first coat will help reduce bubbles if you did not use CP.
Read the directions and "helpful hints" that came with the finish!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2006 03:09PM by Raymond_Adams.

Jay said everything that I would have. 4 rpm. works. I like 18 rpm. better, though. Welcome to this wonderful addiction. (rodbuilding) LOL. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

I prefer FC Lite.
If you go that route, maked your first coat thin. Thin enough to see thread texture. If you dont use CP, work from the toe of the guide foot towards the heel, allowing the finish to penetrate the threads. This will push out most of the bubbles.
Flame the wraps to get those last bubbles out of the guide foot area. Put it on your dryer. I check for bubbles 2x in the first 30 min.
Pop them if they appear.
Let it turn overnight.
A subsequent coat, with the 'wicking' or 'drip' technique as Jay mentioned above is all you'll need.

RB

Like the rest said, the culprit is the amount of finish that you're using. Let the finish sag/drip , remove excess from bottom and rotate 180 degrees and repeat. ALL finishes will level but the blank has to be level and all excess finish has to be removed.


Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Guys why is it that we seem to accept that the way to apply finish is to put too much on then spend time getting it off. Using rotation flames etc. My suggestion is go easy if you are inexpeirenced with finishing with high builds. Better to apply not enough as you can always go back for another coat. I just wonder about the brushes or tools being used to apply the finish These cheap brushe so loved by some are so clumsy I treckon they can be the culprits on some occasions. Some football shaped wraps are to some eyes very ok so it may not be the end of the world. Thing is if you have obviuosly applied too much finish why not remove it with a decent flat brush whilst the finish is still green. Much easier to do this way that allow the darned finish to fall off. Kinder on the floor to