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Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Ken Driedger
(---.bchsia.telus.net)
Date: March 29, 2006 05:14PM
A quick run-thru at search reveals a few threads on this product...my question goes to pre-boring a blank before sending to be stabilized. (I did not see anything like this at search)
One of the firms listed in the thread from search will do up to 4 samples for a decent price, to see if the wood picked will accept the stabilization process. Why not "rough out" a blank first, then send away? Get it round, with a bore hole, then get it stabilized? I'll send an e-mail off to the company as well, to see what they can add. edited for spelling. Thanks. KD Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2006 05:16PM by Ken Driedger. Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Rich Gassman
(---.hsd1.co.comcast.net)
Date: March 29, 2006 07:10PM
Ken, I was wondering the same thing, just never got around to finding out for myself. Could you post what you find out, or email me directly. I would like to know also, thanks, Rich. Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Stan Grace
(---.hln-mt.client.bresnan.net)
Date: March 29, 2006 07:53PM
The stabilizing process will warp the wood somewhat from my experience. You most likely will end up having to re bore a crooked hole in order to mount it on a mandrel. I had wood stabilized using blocks and rounds bored and solid. Unless someone has an improved process since I tried it I wouldn't pre-bore again. Stan Grace Helena, MT "Our best is none too good" Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Mike Barkley
(---.nap.wideopenwest.com)
Date: March 29, 2006 07:55PM
Since most places charge by the pound for stabilizing, I would think that it would be cheaper to bore and rough turn it first. Saves in shipping costs also
Stan, we must have been typing at the same time!! Mike (Southgate, MI) If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!! Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2006 12:30AM by Mike Barkley. Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Gerry Rhoades
(---.vnet-inc.com)
Date: March 29, 2006 10:25PM
Stan is correct, the wood will absolutely warp and probably twist as well. Don't drill it before you send it. The only way the small amount of wood removed while drilling would change the shipping cost is if you send it UPS or Fedex. The only sensible way to send it is Priority Mail in a flat rate envelope, it won't matter what it weighs. Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
Joe Brenner
(---.swifttrans.com)
Date: March 30, 2006 12:06PM
I agree with Stan & Jerry.
The wood will change in the stabilizing process. Check out this site. [www.rrpwhite.com] I ordered some Box Elder & fiddleback maple and received some nice pcs...quick shipping...will work with smaller quanties and seems to be willing to do custom sizes. He sent me some 1" x 1" x 4 1/2. Little bigger than pen blanks which allows a bit more room for error on the drill press. He told me he was intending on checking into sponsorship on this site... Re: Stabilized wood revisited....
Posted by:
David Gonder
(---.bmts.com)
Date: March 31, 2006 08:34PM
Folks,
I've had lots of experience stabilizing reel seat turning stock. Yes, boring and turning round will save expense both on shipping and stabilizing costs, but what you save isn't really worth the time invested in the turning and boring I don't think. I have pre-bored square stock but that was to facilitate drying, not to save money on stabilizing. This, by the way, is a great way to help dry square, reel seat sized turning stock wihtout checking if it is not dry. I did have these peices stabilized when they were dry and they stabilized fine, but you do have to re-bore the holes as the pieces commonly warped when stabilized. The degree of warping depended on the species. Hope this helps. Dave. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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