Hi, I was wondering if the new model Shimano Spirex, Solstace, 2500 rear drag, has the same up sweep and reel foot length as old 2000 size models, anyone have a old and new model they could compare, would help me very much, thanks.
I was also wondering about the J-Metallic thread that Mudhole sells, wondering what you think of it and can it be used for full wraps, trim wraps, does need CP, does not need CP. Your thoughts about the A size would be great. Have a nice day, Rich.

Specifically:
I'm at a bit of a loss for brand-specifcs on your 2+part questions.

Generally: Regarding REELS -
1A: Reel foot lengths & toe-tapers are usually sufficiently universal with respect to reel seat hoods and reel seat barrel lengths that they are not often a consideration. However, if you will shorten a barrel or make a skeleton or open-blank reel seat, you may need to carefully measure and test-fit everything before you do your handle glueing.
1B: The Reel's "Upsweep Angle" can sometimes be a misleading design parameter in the Intersect Method for Concept Spacing of Guides on a Spinning Rod. Some reels have an Intersect Point that is clearly inconsisent with the other known and sound priciples of rod-building and guide spacing. I would not include or exclude a particular spinning reel from my list of suitable choices for a spinning rod based on the Upsweep Angle. IMO, Upsweep Angle is almost totally IRRELEVANT to reel selection and to Guide Spacing, so refresh your mind with that knowledge. The Spinning Reel's Spool Diameter and the Drop-Distance below the rod blank (along with the type of line you will spool) most certainly DO influence your guide sizing, your Butt Guide placement, and the aggresiveness of your Choking Funnel (between the Butt Guide and your Intersect Point).

Generally: Regarding METALLIC or SIZE-A Thread -
2A: Metallic-foil or mylar-film covered thread does not NEED Color Preserver (CP). These coatings or sheaths (around the nylon core fiber) are usually impervious to liquids, and therefore not in danger of turning translucent when thread finish (epoxy or solvent-based) is applied to the thread.
2B: Almost any brand of Thread sold specifically for wrapping fishing rods has a tensile strength that is more than sufficient to produce a band of thread whose wrap will never let go of the line guide under actual fishing conditions. Size-A Thread is DEFINITELY quite strong enough to confidently handle a wide range of rods and line guides. Only on the heaviest rods rated at 50# and up would a majority of rod-builders start to say that it is time to use heavier Thread (Size C, D or E), or two over-wraps. Just use an appropriate amount of thread TENSION while wrapping, and the line guides will not shift inside the wrap. ... -Cliff Hall+++

You can see for yourself these relative strengths & weights:

TITLE: "Gudebrod Thread Table: Strength & Weight of Guide Wraps for Size 2/0 - E" For general reference, a Table of Calculated Strengths and Weights of UNFINISHED Gudebrod Thread Wraps for Sizes 2/0-E, for Silk, Regular Nylon, NCP and HT Metallics, assuming a thread wrap bandwidth of 1 cm, around a rod blank of circumference of 1 cm (OD = 1/Pi = 3.18 mm), is available at: [www.rodbuilding.org]
Calculated values, not direct "in-situ" measurements.
-Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****

Hi Cliff, thank you for your reply, very informative. I guess I miss stated what I was looking for as far as spinning reel dimensions, should have put it as you did, Drop-Distance below the rod blank. I have always liked the design of the Shimano Spirex 1000 and 2000 reels, also like the rear drag, just in case something bigger than what you was planning on takes your lure. It seems they are discontinuing the 2000 with rear drag, and going to 2500 size. I was also wondering about the J-Metallic thread from mudhole because I ordered a few different colors and was wondering what it was like to work with, and the appearance compared to other metallic brands. Thank you for your great answers.

I've found the J Metallic thread to be the weakest of the metallic threads I've tried including the Gudebrod, Rice and FishHawk brands. the only color I use is the antique gold for trim accents. I wouldn't recommend it for guide wraps, for that I like HT metallic A which is also my thread of choice for weaves.

Hi Jim, thank you for your response. I guess I have a lot of thread for trim accents, that is what I mainly wanted it for. Now have to see if I like the Pewter, Bronze, Black, Copper. Live and learn, thank you for your reply.

If you start wrapping guides with HT Metallic you may consider a thread spool tensioner instead of one where the thread is drawn through pressure plates for tension. The are a few colors of HT like the black and red where the cover will strip back quite easily. You can make one quite simply. This one is portable, weighted and the legs will fit into a rod lathe bed.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Fsh No Mo



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2006 08:24PM by Bill Stevens.

Bill, thank you for the advise and the photo, Rich.

I was concerned about some properties of the Gudebrod threads and the information posted on their web site. I got in touch with a Mr. Paul Black yesterday with Gudebrod who was very helpful in getting the questions I had about metallics answered. I was surprised to learn the the HT stands for High Tenacity. The term refers primarliy to the extremely thin inner core strength when compared to other fibers. The HT line of products is recommended as a guide wrap thread by the manufacturer. Paul told me that the Gudebrod literature for conventional nylon thread includes a phrase that names nylon as the the best thread for guide wraps. The HT threads are a later innovation and they simply have not gone back and written the older text on nylon. The nylon is still their largest seller.

Paul really is knowledgable on rod wrapping thread and it seems to be his life as well. He would fit in very well in doing a general seminar on rod wrapping threads and their properties for the annual rodbuilder's meeting.