This may be overly simplistic and long, but this was something I discovered.

I did a mayfly inlay in Ivory and because the ivory was cracked, I descided to coat the ivory for the final coat over the inlay, instead of buffing the inlay like I usually do. I was using LS Supreme and I could not get the epoxy to flow. Most builders think I am crazy when I say LS Supreme is kind of thick......Relax.....Don't hit the Defcon Button yet. I used Hobby Epoxy for years and it was water thin and that is what I was used to using.

I made two attempts to finish the inlay and it was not flowing. When I applied the flame to get it to flow and level, it scorched the epoxy and I ended up with black swirls in the epoxy. Most of the time I do not have this problem, but this time I did and it was being very difficult.

This worked out great.

I did my usual mixing in a small cup and then did the pour into a small tin holder for bubble release and non contamination. Usually I apply to the rod at this point and then heat to get it to flow and burst bubbles. But what I did was heat the bottom of the tin until it thinned out. Then applied it to the ivory and WOW! It flowed into a perfect smooth BUBBLE FREE finish like I never seen. Used this technique on the Stonefly inlay after that and first try the epoxy leveled perfectly and was perfect!

Can't believe I didn't think of this before. LS Supreme is good and now that I can apply it like this, I expect to now get it right the first time every time.

It did speed up the curing process I think?, or it seemed too anyway.

Maybe others out there have been doing this. For me, I have always applied the epoxy and flamed it to get it to flow. Now I am going to try this for a while.

Terry

Early last year I did the very same thing with a foil container full of Flex-Coat high build
At first, it was like magic! Nice clear and free flowing it was for about 3 or 4 minutes
and then it very quickly set and congealed into a thick mess! Fortunately, I was able to
flame the globules on the buttwrap and it leveled out and I was able complete the finish application by quickly mixing up more.
I surmised I applied way to much heat and decided to stick with what has always worked
for me. Fearing to try that again!
Experimentation is what pushes new things and thoughts forward but breaking habits
to try something new is not easy for most people. Nature of the beast I guess!

Thanks Terry!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I put the parts of the finish in my shirt pocket for 30 - 40 minutes before mixing. this gets the temperature just about right for Flex-Coat, LS Supreme, and now ThreadMaster. As long as I remember to do this & keep the temperature in the workshop about 75 degrees I have no problems with finish. I do wish ThreadMaster was as thin as LS Supreme, however. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

Usually down here on the gulf coast we have no problems with heat, but I l like the thinner application as well. So over the table where I store my finish, Threadmaster, I put a little heat lamp on a goose neck and I just turn it on about twenty minutes before I need my finish. Works out well for me. Like Ralph I used to put it in my pocket but the wife started raising Cane about GLUE ON MY SHIRTS. I also use the heat lamp for other things. You guys have a good day.

Big John
Rio Hondo, Texas
Blessed are those who can give without remembering and take without forgetting

What heat source did you use to "burn" LS? I've used a Propane torch and had to leave the flame hittig the epoy for several seconds before anything happened, then it caught fire, lol. SAme results as with other epoxies for me. Maybe Propane has a lower temp flame?

What I’ve started doing is to pull the epoxy into the syringes I am using. Place those syringes tip first into the flat container I will be mixing them in.

Then place it in the Microwave for 10 sec. Eject then mix.

I buy the larger bottles of epoxy. So i don’t put the whole container in the microwave, am paranoid that if I reheat them to many times it might start effecting the epoxy.

By leaving the to parts separated while heating. It does not seem to effect the cure time much. I mix it in a flat plastic container, and use a spatula to push it back and forth so I have very little bubbles. Because the mixture is warmed the ones I do get dissipate very quickly.

One thing to watch because the mixture is warned in the syringes it is very thin so when you push the plungers, it will spray out if you apply as much pressure as you normally would with thicker mix.

I am seeing a theme here....Thinner and heat. This is good. Thanks for the information. I appreciate the input and love the ideas you all have shared. Terry

Also remember that while heat will certainly thin the epoxy (it'll be like water if you heat it enough) it will also make it set very quickly. Normally after mixing a batch of finish a short 5-7 seconds in the microwave will thin it enough for bubbles to free themselves. Much beyond 10 seconds and it will be water thin, but you won't have much working time.

Jay