I hate using CP as it always seemed to look "globish" on my wraps. I use to apply it with a brush as I rolled the blank. The problem seemed mating up with the CP initially applied that had started to dry already making a real gooey mess. And the continued brushing to try and smooth it out only seemd to make it worse.

Then I saw Raymond Adams' recent response to just "glob a bunch on at first and then wick off the excess", I thought this can't work - wrong! I was testing some various colored wraps and saturated one with CP per Raymond's method, fully encapsulating the wrap - (but I wasn't able to wick anything off). I thought there was enough CP on that short wrap to do the whole dang rod - but it dried perfectly smooth! After applying the finish later, that CP saturated wrap came out as one of the best looking wraps I've ever done - duh! I'm redoing one of my first ever projects and will revisit using CP. Thank you Raymond Adams!

Your welcome Tim,
However, If remember correctly I believe I was refering to applying epoxy finish. The same method works with C.P. if the cp is not too thick.
Be carefull if you use the 811 cp and it is thick as it will set very quickly and the thick stuff does not "wick" very well and you could wind up
with a lumpy mess! You won't have that problem with the Flex-Coat CP.

Thanks again for the public recognition!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

My CP is in fact Flex Coat. And I forgot to mention that I put it on with my newly discovered method of using a spatula. I'm confident that a brush was the culprit in bubble formation when applying both CP and finish.

I'm starting to think if I go back to using CP this way, I can trim the "nubbins" off my wraps after it dries before appying my finish and get some really smoooooth wraps. That way I can get away with a single coat of finish on the smaller guides of the tip sections - which I prefer to do. Seems like I learn something new everyday. Thanks again Raymond.

When applying CP, you need to thoroughly saturate the wraps - you need to get them wet. And, brushes are fine as applicators, but you don't want to brush your CP or epoxy around. Load the brush, lower it to the wrap, rotate the rod 360 degrees, reload the brush, move over and do it again.

I don't know how long you've been watching this board or if you receive RodMaker, but these simple tips that make a world a difference and we've been pushing them for many years now.

.........

As far as nubbins go, trim them off after the first thin coat of epoxy. The second coat will hide them completely and you'll never know they were there.
The epoxy offers a little more protection to the thread than cp does, so you are less likely to slice into the thread through the epoxy.