Was helping a friend build his first rod (from a kit), and all going fairly well, until I mixed the eposy provided to glue on the cork grip and & reel seat. When the directions on the package said 2-5 minutes working time; they were NOT kidding. After an adrenalin surged and a panicked herculean effort, I still came up 1/2 inch short. So, I did what all seasoned rodbuilders do, I cut the 1/2 inch overhand off the butt end. Having only used U-40 Rod Bond, I was caught off gurd with the speed in which the epoxy set up.

Unfortuantely, that was only the beginning. For whatever reason(s), I also struggle with putting on the tip-top, the glue stick and timing. Yep, melted 3/4 inch off the tip. Flame too close to the graphite and not on the tip-top itself. My buddy's 9 foot, 3pc. flyrod is now 1 and 1/4 inches shorter.

How will this affect placing the guides (basd on the spacing chart provided), and I am sorely tempted to use U-40 rod bond for the tip top.

I am still in the very early stages of my rodbuilding career (in case you couldn't tell), and can use any feedback (positive or negative), anyone cares to impart.

Thank you very much.

Greg Meinzer
Wenatchee, WA

Get your self some - Rod Bond. Sounds like you used 5 minute epoxy for that handle. 5 min will not give you long enough time to put the handle on. The rod bond is good stuff. Gives you time to " fiddle " around and is very thick and easy to mix. Used for the handle and reel seats. I mix mine on a piece of printing paper folded four times.
I do use the 5 minute epoxy for the tip tops. Don't like the glue sticks. Ya still have to be quick if your working in a warm place. Get your self some rod building books to study first.
Also there is a search on this site that can answer a lot of questions before you do some thing your not sure of. If you can't find the info just ask here.

Stck with Rod Bond for everything but tips. Use 5 min epoxy or glue stick so that it can be removed for repairs. If using glue stick, use your flame to melt the end of the glue stck and rub it onto the blank, then put the tip on or slice tiny slivers and insert into the tip top and heat. Don't apply heat directly to a bare blank tip (as you found out). The amount that you trimmed PROBABLY won't affect much, but I really have much fly rod experience

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Hi Greg,

First, don't beat yourself up to bad here. Been there done that! I for one and others have done the same things you mentioned. Learning from your mistakes is what separate the men from the boys!

Second, this very slight inadvertent modifications you did to that blank proably will not be noticable
at all depending on the blank. Spacing charts are just a suggested starting point. You should always do a static stress test and test casting after intial guide placement to obtain the optimum guide placement set up for any blank. Read the aricles in the FAQ and Library sections here.

5 min. epoxy works really well for rod tips as Bill and Mike said.

Good luck, email me any time and visit this site often. A wealth of the best info from the best rod
builders in the country are yours for the asking!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2006 05:05PM by Raymond_Adams.

You might like Steve Petri's new DVD. Might help you with some new ideas and tips. It's very comprehensive

[www.ackfishing.com]

Pete

A big THANK YOU to all who responded: Mr. Boettcher, Mr. Barkley, Mr. Adams, and Mr. Maltby. Great feedback by all and now I can forge ahead. You guys are the best.

Sincerely,

Greg Meinzer

Hay watch that mister stuff , Just kidding