New to rodbuilding. I have a 9' 8 weight Sage Xi2 blank. I'm using Fuji Alconites guides. The first two guides are double foot, but all the rest are single foot.

I pulled up and printed the Forhan Locking Wrap article from the Library and have a couple of questions.

First let me state that I concure with Rich Forhan's analysis and have read what others have said. If it gives me a 10 to 20% better hold, that's a big increase. I'd be delighted with a 10 to 20% return on my investments. I digress.

Under the paragraph heading: "The Locking Wrap" it states:

Stop one wrap short of the guide leg and then put in a tie-off loop.....

My assumption: At this point in the wrap I have the original wrap, lets say about an inch long from in front of the guide foot to the base of the guide leg that supports the ring and have already put in a tie-off loop back about 20 wraps. I like to get a good hold. This tie_off loop, in my case, would be the same loop Rich refers to in his instructions. If I follow Rich correctly he has only 4 wraps over the tag end when the whole wrap is finished. Are four wraps enough to hold the foot and locking wrap securely? Do you see anything wrong with what I'm doing?

Am I being too cautious in the number of wraps I have trapping an end? I do this for both ends of the wrap.

I bought this blank from John Dewitt and he has been very helpful in getting me started with this project. Thanks John.

I'll be using the finished rod for bonefish. Anybody here fly fished with the Fuji Alconite single foot guides for bones? Love to hear your stories.

Any and all feel free to comment. I need all the help I can get.

You may be having a hard time pulling the loop though with 20 plus wraps on it. I myself use about 6 give or take. If your loop goes though easy, your tension I would say is too loose. With good tension 5-6 over your loop is plenty. If you put the loop in just before that last wrap then do three locking wraps, that will give you 4, I add 2-3 more giving me about the 5 or 6.

Do you have any rod building books or videos. Tom's book on building is good and most all the sponsors on the left should have it. If you have any other blanks or even dowels you could practice wrapping on them. Practice makes perfect.

You would have one wrap going over the guide, two blocking wraps, three RF locking wraps, and then two more blocking wraps; or a total of eight wraps.

That should be plenty. I have never had a problem doing this.

rhr

I would not be to worried about the exact number of wrap loops over the tag end. It is a function of how much tension, size of thread and what you use for a pull thread. Just be sure the tension on the thread is adequate for holding the guide securely in place and still be able to move to tweak the alignment. I use dewaxed Power Pro for a pull thread and like you can pull under a lot of loops. I pull the Power Pro till the loop slightly dissapears and then cut the thread close with a pair of Squizzers. I like more covering loops so there will be no chance of nubs pulling through the gap after cutting and pulling under. No numbs means one less coat of finish on the guide wraps for me.

5 to 7 wraps over the tie-off loop is generally sufficient. I drop mine in about 2 turns before I move behind the guide leg to start the Forhan wrap. End up with about 6 or 7 total.

............

If you are strating twenty wraps back before you start a locking wraps that's about 28 wraps. Could dfinently cause problems. good chance you line will break before pulling all the way through. Have had it happen with just 6 to 8 When it does you could be going back to square one to sart over. To much caution can be as bad as to little

Do practice wraps with the thread being used and you'll quickly figure out what you need, depending on thread and thread tension.

I usually use about 10 or so wraps before pulling the tail end through.

Stan

Thanks guys. I’ve gotten over my paranoia on the number of wraps and after some practice have settled on 5 before the leg and 3 after.

Boy was it tough pulling the thread through 20 wraps plus the hold wraps. Breaking half the time.

Aligning the guides in a straight row was a problem until I came up with this solution. I suspend a 30 lb backing line between two small eyebolts. The line is passed through the guides on the section of rod that I have done my best to align the guides on. Then viewed from above you can readily see any guide that isn’t straight. I’m sure there are other methods but this works for me.

So who’s used alconites for salt water on bones?

What a great site and the help is really very humbling. Restores one’s faith in his fellow man. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks.

One thing I do that may help is, I put the reel seat and handle on, then the tip top. After the guides are on and spacing set, I start wrapping from the tip top on down the blank. This way as I wrap I set each one up to the top. I measure and adjust each one as I go along.

One thing I do that may help is, I put the reel seat and handle on, then the tip top. After the guides are on and spacing set, I start wrapping from the tip top on down the blank. This way as I wrap I set each one up to the top. I measure and adjust each one as I go along. After each is wrapped. I take the rod off the wrapper and sight to adjust father if needed.

I've had alconites on a salt rod for 3 years and they have held up well.
Be sure to rinse with fresh water and wipe down after each outing as a precaution.
Not just the rings, but the guide frames as well.

RB

When I was at the great show in Charlotte, I asked Rich how he does his wraps. He said that he uses one wrap before the foot to anchor the tie-off loop, then one after the foot, the three locking wraps, then two regular wraps to finish. If that's good enough for Rich Forhan, it's good enough for me.

Jim