I went to the seminar and forgot to write down the type of knife or knives you can use in the cork jigs that mike had. Can anyone help me? Thanks Scott

It's a flush cut saw like this [www.grizzly.com] Often sold as Japanese flus cut saw. It cuts on the pull instead of the push to prevent binding. It's also available at places like Home Depot, etc.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Hey, Mike. it was awfully nice meeting you this weekend. I may have to get such a saw from Grizzley. I am still here in Charlotte, working, and in the evenings i have looked for this type saw. No luck at Lowes and Home Depot. I want to experiment this weekend, so I may just try a hacksaw.
Steve Broadwell

Hi Scott,

I used a saw much like the one Mike uses but I got mine at Sears. I now use knife blades (from Sears also) and I no longer lose saw kirf material. The blade is the replacement blades for one of Sears newer cutters. It's a lot like a utility knife blade but longer. Works good for me but the pull saw also works good.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

Hank - now I have a reason to go to Sears tonight.

Mike probably covered this in his presentation. A key for me has been finding a push-pull saw that fits tight in the jig slot. I'm not at home to check the brand. My first attempts I used an exacto hobby saw with very thin blade. I had a hard time keeping it from wandering and I got inconsistent results in terms of straight, square cuts. With the thicker blade, I lose more because of the kerf, but I'm gaining by having less scrap. I keep all the pieces that are slightly less than 1/4" and use the washer technique that Mike posted here to cut down slim pieces for other inlay work.

Scott;
The local lumber yard here where I live sells a Stanley Flush Cut saw.
/s/Bob

Try an internet search for "Tajima" or "Shark" brand saws. allprotool.com has them if nothing else. Shark Saw (formerly Takagi Tools) actually pioneered the Japaneese pull saw in the U.S. market by being the first to put a "western" handle on it, rather than the traditional straight, bamboo wrapped handle. Look for their #10-2410. Kerf waste is kept to a minimum as the blade's only .012" wide with a minimal tooth set. All of their teeth are ground on three cutting edges and impulse hardened. Shark and Tajima both offer replacement blades as well.

The key is to use the saw you purchase to cut the slot in your jig. This will eliminate any blade deflection.

MOST of the "pull saws" on the market are "wannabees", including the "big names" that have been selling "push saws" for the last 100 years. Stay clear. They've simply TRIED to copy the saws mentioned above which have both been around for over 200 years. Spend $20 rather than $10 and you'll be MUCH happier!

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California