It's been a long time, but the basics have not changed. It will be my first fly rod, however, and I used to shape spinning rod cork by eye with rasp and sandpaper.
I can use help re certain procedures and sequence of certain stages of building grip.

First, the parameters:
All rods will be used in salt water - 9 foot - 7wt - 10wt with half wells or full wells; depending on mood.
I like snake guides - have always specified hardend chrome.
Will use flor grade cork.
Up-locking reel seat.
1 1/2" - 2" fighting butt.
Leaning toward forming grip on rod

Questions:

1. Can I do a professional looking job on a Flex Coat drill lathe?
2. If the answer to above is a NO, and I have to go with one of the lathes mentioned on this site,( a Renzetti is not warranted at this time) will I have to form the grip off the blank. And if so, how do I insure that the grip is totally adhered to the blank?
3. Should I use a graphite bushing or cork for under the up-locking reel seat?
4. Let's say I want to turn my own 2" fighting butt. What is the glue-up sequence?
Do I slide and glue the cork for the fighting butt and the bushing over the tip section of the butt and shape them at the same time (or do I fit the fighting butt over a bushed blank from the butt end)? Then do I install the seat and grip rings (or preformed grip)?
5. If I don't go with a Struble, how do I ream the "hood" ring? Does this get glued same time as the rest of the grip rings?
6. How do I keep from deforming the reamed "Hood" ring with the glue clamp?
5. What is the "best" functioning/durable snake guides new to the market?
6. Flex Coat Lite or regular? Or other brand?
7. I assume "A" size thread? Brand?
8. Coat wraps using a (slow) speed wrapper? Use a brush or knitting needle ala Garcia.
9.Rod blank coatings...I prefer none. How can I seal from UV rays? Will plain carnuba wax suffice?

If there is some aspect of building the grip I over looked, please feel free to add to above.

Thanks in advance.
Herb Ladenheim

Protect your mental health and your finances. don't start now.

My answers are in all caps, not shouting at you, just trying to make them easy to find.

Questions:

1. Can I do a professional looking job on a Flex Coat drill lathe?
YES.

2. If the answer to above is a NO, and I have to go with one of the lathes mentioned on this site,( a Renzetti is not warranted at this time) will I have to form the grip off the blank. And if so, how do I insure that the grip is totally adhered to the blank?

3. Should I use a graphite bushing or cork for under the up-locking reel seat?
EITHER WILL WORK VERY WELL - USE WHATEVER IS EASIER FOR YOU. THE FLEX COAT URETHANE BUSHINGS ARE THE BEST THING TO COME ALONG FOR MOUNTING SEATS IN THE PAST CENTURY.

4. Let's say I want to turn my own 2" fighting butt. What is the glue-up sequence?
GLUE THE RINGS TO THE BLANK OR MANDREL AND CLAMP THEM. TURN.

Do I slide and glue the cork for the fighting butt and the bushing over the tip section of the butt and shape them at the same time (or do I fit the fighting butt over a bushed blank from the butt end)? Then do I install the seat and grip rings (or preformed grip)?
AGAIN, YOU CAN DO THIS EITHER WAY - THE END RESULT IS THE SAME. DO WHICHEVER YOU FIND EASIER. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A LATHE THAT WILL ACCOMODATE THE ENTIRE BLANK SECTION, TURN AND SHAPE ON A MANDREL AND THEN REMOVE, REAM AND MOUNT TO ROD.

5. If I don't go with a Struble, how do I ream the "hood" ring? Does this get glued same time as the rest of the grip rings?
MOST COMPANIES OFFER THESE PRE BORED CORK RINGS. GLUE TO END OF GRIP AND THEN SHAPE TO BLEND IN WITH THE REST OF THE GRIP. YOU CAN ALSO MAKE YOUR OWN BY BORING WITH A COMMON SPADE BIT.

6. How do I keep from deforming the reamed "Hood" ring with the glue clamp?
THERE IS NO REASON FOR IT TO DEFORM - IF THE CLAMP ENDS ARE FLAT THEY WILL NOT DEFORM THE HOODED CORK.

5. What is the "best" functioning/durable snake guides new to the market?
SNAKE GUIDE BRAND AND REC RECOIL TYPES ARE HIGHLY THOUGHT OF. REC IS A SPONSOR OF THIS SITE.

6. Flex Coat Lite or regular? Or other brand?
FLEX COAT REMAINS A GREAT EPOXY ROD FINISH. BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OTHERS AND ALL ARE VERY GOOD.

7. I assume "A" size thread? Brand?
A THREAD IS PROBABLY PERFECT ON A FLY ROD, GUDEBROD, FISHHAWK, NATIONAL (MERRICK) ARE ALL GOOD BRANDS.

8. Coat wraps using a (slow) speed wrapper? Use a brush or knitting needle ala Garcia.
DUMP THE KNITTING NEEDLY AND USE A SPATULA OR BRUSH. DID YOU READ THE FINISHING ARTICLE IN THE MOST RECENT RODMAKER MAGAZINE?

9.Rod blank coatings...I prefer none. How can I seal from UV rays? Will plain carnuba wax suffice?
NO NEED TO COAT THE BLANK. WAX WILL GIVE IT SOME SHEEN AND MAKE IT EASIER TO CLEAN.

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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2006 01:38PM by Tom Kirkman.