Would someone please list the steps that you would follow to build a cork grip on a spinning rod from cork rings? What is the best way to glue the rings together and how much pressure do you exert to ensure that the rings are seated but not deformed? I assume that the last process is the snading or shaping. Is there a good reference document for this? TIA

Have done that myself yet so the only help I can give you is to remind you about the archives here.
Do a search with all dates and read to your hearts content! That subject is covered quite well indeed!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Building a grip with cork rings is a piece of cake. I made a clamp that looks almost exactly like the one Flex Coat sells. All my grips are made from rings. You can glue them together on one of Andy Dear's mandrels(be sure to give it a good coat of wax first) or on a piece of all-thread. When I clamp a grip, I tighten it as much as I possibly can. You're not going to permanently deform the cork, since it will have to be shaped after the glue has cured. Most people recommend Tite Bond III, but the first grip I made this way I used Elmer's glue and the grip is still in one piece. You can also use Rod Bond or some other epoxy adhesive or even Gorilla Glue. I think someone here even mentioned using contact cement.

Piece of cake! I also glue them up om mandrels and clamp them tight in a modified trigger clamp [www.rodbuilding.org] I use tightbond II, III or Rod Bond. I usually bore each ring out to 3/8" (best fit for the rods I build) and use a piece of well waxed All Thread rod to clamp and then transfer them to one of Andy Dear's mandrels for sanding/shaping. Some build them right on the blank, but I would not recommend that as, IMO, it's risky, If I screw up on a mandrel, the most I can damage is some cork but if I screw up on the blank, it can really get expensive. I just ream to fit before I install on blank.

Making your own grips opens up a whole new world. You can make use of burl corks, foam inserts, etc..


Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike, I stole your idea of the clamp and this is what I use. However, to save money I bought an off-brand clamp at Big Lots for only about $4. I think this is why I am having the problem with a visible glue line at the rings! I don't think this cheap clamp can put enough pressure on the cork. In fact, the last time I used it, it just started slipping and I had to take it apart and fix it. Maybe this is a case of penney wise, pound foolish.
I am going to bring a part of a split grip I glued up to Charlotte to show you the white rings, and see if you think it is a matter of not enough pressure. It is hard to know exactly how much pressure when you are new at this.
Steve Broadwell

Steve, I dont think that it's as much a matter of pressure as possiblt to much glue?? When Ralph Oquin demo'd the use of Rod Bond last year, he would spread it on each side of the rings, completely covering, and then use a popsicle stick and wipe it ALL of just leaving a "wet" surface and then clamp. Works great!!!!

When I make my grips, I use a mandrel made from old broken rods ( the mandrel should be a size smaller than the blank the grip well be placed on.) I place a coat of paraffin wax on the mandrel. The wax acts like a release agent and well not allow the bonding glue to adhere to the mandrel. Ream each ring to fit the mandrel snugly As for glueing I just cover ½ the distance from the center of the ring to the outer edge with Rod Bond. When it comes to applying pressure, all you need is a snug fit. Twist each ring to get a close alignment. Pick a side of the base ring and align each ring. This way you do not have hills and valleys all over the place when it comes to shaping the grip. As for glue lines, I loosen the clamp. Then using a mixture of water, denatured alcohol and liquid soap I wash the rings. After re tightening the rings, I re a wash and dry using the denatured alcohol as a drier. Once the rings are curried, I can place the mandrel in my rod lath and shape the rings. To remove the new grip from the mandrel all you have to do is hold firmly onto the grip and now twist the mandrel a few times back, an forth holding the grip firmly . This well, break the bond that holds the grip to the mandrel.. Now all you have to do is re-ream the hole in the cork grip to fit on the blank snugly
Good Wraps Bob PS I have seen Ralph Oquin do his dems and he is a master

Bob, I'll have to try that washing idea. Mike, I really don't think it is too much glue. I have tried Rod Bond and Tite Bond both. I use a little putty knive, about 3/4 inch wide, and scrape it all off. You really can't even see the glue, the only way to know it is there is that the cork gets a little darker.
I wonder if this could be caused by the cheap cork I am practicing with. I bought 100 rings for $30 from a sponsor, just to practice on. I have had absolutely no problems with burl, both Andy's exotic burl and the regular. Also, no problem glueing rubberized cork to burl.
If you look closely at the glued piece, in addition to the wide white rings, you can see little gaps between the rings. When I get back home I think I am going to smooth the ends of a couple of rings on a sanding block, and try again. These might just be so non-uniform that they are not mating right, even under pressure.

This is actually the only thing I have had a problem with so far. The shaping is easy; I didn't even waste one piece. And, I have never had any epoxy trouble. I can continue to buy finished cork sections and shape them, but I want to mix and match cork and burl.
Thanks
Steve

Andy's got some real nice regular cork as well as the exotic!

Mike

I will look at that this weekend. I can't wait until the big show!

It's going to be awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!