Since we are talking about it, what are the advanages of applying finish with a motor set up? So far I have spun by hand but I am thinking about a motor. What is the best rpm for finishing? I will still hand rotate for drying just because I enjoy it. Thanks Tom.

For myself, I use the FlexCoat 200 rpm motor and slip clutch chuck for applying the finish. I lets me get finish on quickly, get some very nice straight edges on the ends of the finish. I also can wick off the excess epoxy real easily. I then move the rod to a 4 rpm dryer to let it finish. I just like the fact that I do not have to sit with the rod. I do check on the rod every now and then just to make sure things are looking ok, but since I went to using thin coats of epoxy, I have less troubles with bubbles and having the epoxy get that football shape on the guides.

If you ever get a chance to watch someone using the Flexcoat set up at 200 you will be blown away by the simplicity of applying finish. The finishing department at Allstar in Houston can do a complete 7 foot blank including a small butt decal covering in less than eight seconds. All of a sudden the problem with clean edges on guide wraps vanishes. The initial investment in finishing at high speed can be minimized if you learn to set your variable speed rod wrapper at approximately 200 rpm. The technique will allow the use of very thin coats. The brush is held in one position and used like a spatula for leveling. There have been a number of posts on this subject that imply that the finish is thrown off - this is just not the case. Set up a test somehow and you will really like the advantages. Apply high speed - move to low speed dryer.

Gon Fishn

At 200 rpm at the Allstar facility, how do they get the tunnels and back side of the guides covered - just let it gob up where the frame comes off the wrapped foot? The tunnels and backside is where I spend the most of my time when adding finish. Thanks.

Tom: I've only finished a half-dozen rods and I have a power wrapper that I use to apply the finish. It has been my experience that applying finish at about 200RPM is actually pretty easy. I thought it would be rather difficult but have found it to be one of the easier parts of rod building. Just about every message I have seen about the subject recommended finishing at some rate faster than you night think and they were right. Clean edges, smooth and level surface, really pretty easy with a power wrapper type of setup. I have been using FC Lite but will try Threadmaster on my next rod. The leveling properties of guide epoxy are pretty amazing.

Next subject. I tried drying one rod by hand. That is turning the rod about 180 degrees every fifteen minutes or so. This has been recommended in several messages. I was surprised that it did look to be more level and more clear than on my regular 4RPM drying motor. So one of my next projects will be trying to setup a stepper motor than turns 180 degrees every fifteen minutes. My brother-in-law is a mechanical engineer and we are going to try this. If anyone is interested I will post pictures and results

Tom,

Like you )(and many builders) I have gone back to mostly hand finishing. I have several dryers ranging from 3 to 40 rpm but seem to get my best finishes when doing them by hand for a couple hours and then using a 3/4 rpm dryer. I hear a lot of good things about applying at 200rpm though.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

The application of a tiny drop of finish past the single foot guide frame on locking wraps or in tunnel areas is done by stopping the rpm with the slip clutch when needed. After watching someone do it a time or two will give you all the information you need to develop the skills needed. One real neat thing is after you figure out how it works you will no longer find the need to apply more finish than needed and allowing it to slump to the bottom before removal. The high speed application will eliminate the hill and valley effect when drying.

Thankyou for your responces guys. I think I will lokk into a motor. Tom

Leon,
I probably don't totally understand your set up that will rotate 180 degrees every 15 minutes. What that sounds to me is it will rotate to a point and then set for 15 minutes, rotate 180 and set and THEN rotate right back to the first setting for 15 minutes? I think I would rather have a continous turning motor. But then I haen't done it yet. I bout an 18 rpm motor for for $8. Of course I have to build the stand and all...but for $8 instead of $75 I gonna take a whack at it. Actually I am probably off base. I am thinking of a drying motor........not a finishing motor.

Gem



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2006 11:54PM by Jim Williams.

Jim,

What Leon is talking about is what many of us feel gives the best finish. Apply the finish rotate BY HAND 180 degrees and when it levels on top and sags on the bottom, wick off the sags and rotate again. I usually do this for an hour or two than turn on the dryer (3 rpm for me) The 15 minutes will vary, less time at first, more as the finish starts to set. The key is to make sure that your rod in perfectly level to begin with.

Mike