After much studying of existing threads I've decided to employ klass kote as a wrap finish, for both guides and ferrule.

in an effort to keep things light i've ordered pearsall's gossamer white silk thread to use as a ferrule wrap for my Dan Craft sig V 5 wt blank. If i understand the method correctly i should be able to cover the silk wrap with klasskote and achieve a completely transparent finish.

i've ordered the same silk thread in dark claret to wrap the guides - single foot SIC titaniums. I'm led to believe that i should use a color perserver in order to make the color fast/solid, as opposed to translucent.

it remains a bit unclear about how one should go about this. I've got tru-oil if i'm required to treat the white gossamer thread first with oil in order to achieve pure transparency... or... merely coat with klasskote to achieve the same thing.

i'm without a color perserver at this time. i'm holding off until i'm sure which type/variety i should use.

thanks for any enlightenment on this topic.

marc forrest

Don't put Tru-Oil on your thread. Just apply the paint (Klass Kote) directly to your white silk. It will turn nearly transparent. There may be a very slight color cast compared to the naked blank but it won't be much.

On the other thread, if you do not use CP the Klass Kote will turn it seomwhat transparent but it will have a much darker cast.


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Thanks Tom

points taken...

i'm in the process of ordering the klasskote however it is not immediately apparent which B epoxy i should order to get a water clear finish.

i understand i'll order klasskote clear #40 part A epoxy

but should i order klasskote GLOSS B catalyst #405

or...

klasskote primer catalyst #415?

thanks again.

marc

Just ask them - tell them what you're using it for and they'll get you what you need.

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Hi Marc,

I've used Klass Kote a couple of times and it works great but there is a big dowside to using it. The smell. Be sure to use in a well ventilated area or you can get a buzz on. Reminded me of the 60's (what I can remember of them). No really it can cause a severe headacke as well as other problems.

Also follow the mixing instructions. I tried to mix it by using my epoxy mixer (not following the instructions) and the mixture got so hot it melted the plactic mixing cup. What a mess that was.

Happy wrapping



Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

You might want to look into Any's new clear Thread Master. I usually get a golden color from epoxies when coating cork handles, but this stuff does not tint it at all. Totally clear. Might be good for those clear wraps ??

Thank you all for your input...

i'll heed your advise.

I hope to blog this adventure with illustrations next month...

cheers!

marc

Marc. Sorry to not answer your email, but the computer was down. The KK can be mixed in the regular mixing cups, or the medicine cups from the pharmacy. If you do a lot of rods, the REI drip bottles can make for easy dispensing. What I do is take 2 glass medicine droppers and mark them with a Sharpie 1/2 way up. Write Gloss on one above the line, Catalyst on the other. Two 1/2 droppers each into the mixing cup. Buy the reducer and with a 3rd dropper [markered thinner] put some reducer in another cup. You can clean your droppers in the extra cup, good enough for several applications anyway. For your first batch of paint, stir and apply when it is still ultrathin. The white silk will disappear. For your second coat, let the mixture sit for 45 minutes to thicken a bit. You should get by with 2 coats total. I would think that the silk would be enough to protect the ferrules.

Thanks Don!