Hi all, I have been reading post on this site for sometime and I have to say that this is without a doubt the most informative board I have ever found on any subject.. I have never built a rod, but I have been interested in it for several years now. I think I really got the itch back in the early 90's when I was going to school not to far from Bennet Spgs, MO. and Charlie Readings Custom Rod Shop. I stopped in and saw some of Charlies Rods and was amazed. I'm sure that I will never be a professional builder, but I think it would be more fun to fish with a rod that I build. I fly fish and tie flies I might as well build my rods too.

Now with that being said I will show my ignorance. by asking a multitude of dumb questions.

I am ready to get my feet wet so to speak. I have ordered a 7' 4wt Rainshadow blank. I didn't want a high dollar rod as my first go.

I have also ordered a wrapping tool. It says it has a tension setting.

I have also ordered a drying motor. 18 RPM. All of which were bought from sponsers of this board.

Are there any tips for beginners that are about to lay their hands on there first rod?

How much tension should I apply to the thread while wrapping?

For best results should I use CP?

When applying flex coat should I brush it on while it is turning on the drying motor, or do I turn it by hand or do I brush it length wise?

Any help would be greatly appriciated

Gamon, I would suggest you get your hands on a copy of Tom Kirkman's book or Dale Clemens "Advanced Custom Rod Building" prior to getting your feet wet. Even though this site is as you say, "is without a doubt the most informative board I have ever found on any subject.." it is very difficult to get and understand all the information required to build a superior rod just from the information contained here.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Truthfully Gamon...The best tips are gong to be ones you figure out as you go.

I'm on rod 15 or 16 over the last 3 years or so. If I can do it you certainly can.The only tension device I use is simply running the thread (which sits in a shallow cup) through a hard back book (The War North of Rome...if your interested). I can control the tension by plaacing it under more pages and closer to the spine.

I generally hold the rod in one hand/arm and rotate....using figer pressure on the thread to further control the tension.

Antequated...Certainly. But works. Make it fairly tight....tight enough that you have to work a little to wiggle the guides into perfect alignment. Using a tension device I'll bet you have trouble putting too much tension on the guide wraps.

I've never used CP. Never seen a need for it.

I find that using a cut up credit card works better for me than the brushes....do it while the rod is turning. Goop it on liberally, spread it around and get good coverage pretty quickly (some may sag off....that is OK). Then move on to the next one. When they are are covered I come back and do my fine work. Getting the edges just right (I use a tooth pick held up against the wrap edge...Floss is supposed to work nice, too). I also hole one of those camp fire or barbecue starter/lighter deals...with the long nozzle...(but any lighter would work).....Light it up...hold in 4 inches or so (wave it around!) beneath the wraps..You flex coat will warm up...get thin...begin to sag. Wick off the excess with your credit card (or brush).

I'm a dinosaur....I have a hard time changing...But this works for me.

Hope that helps....

Good luck...you'll have a ball. And you might as well order your next 5 or 6 blanks now! YOu'll be hooked!

The rest of the folks around here are experts.....I'm still a layman. But my rods turn out very nice...but thien I'm biased!

Keith

Woops - double Post - deleted - Cliff Hall+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2006 09:31PM by Cliff Hall.

Regarding the thread tension, just be careful in the tip section not to cradle the rod blank in such a way that the thread tension could snap it. You may have to remove the tip section from the wrapping jig to get it right. But even if you hold the tip section in your hands while wrapping the guide nearest the tip, be careful.

To try to say much more about this, at least for me, would be like trying to program a remote robot, which is not good for me or for you. Pay attention to what you are doing. Think while you are doing it. Be careful. No rush. Work on your SKILLS first. The speed only comes with repetition and experience.

Whether or not to use CP depends on the type & color of thread you have already chosen, and what look or effect you want to achieve.

Do an RBO "SEARCH" for your CP issues. LOTS of issues to discuss about this. It is either the simplest or the most confounding decision to make.

Make dang sure to read this on Thread Tension:
how tight should wraps be ... Bruce A. Tomaselli ... Nov. 15, 2005
[www.rodbuilding.org]
I realize this is a very basic question, but how tight should guide wraps be? Is there anyway kind of method to determine this? Should they be just enough not to sag? Should they be firm or tight? Words such as tight, no too tight, etc. are so arbitrary. Thanks" -Bruce

Gamon, when you read Bruce's Post, make sure that you read ALL the Replies. And, at the risk of sounding proud, make sure you understand the explanation and rationale of CLIFF HALL's Reply. If you do, you will understand the physics of Thread Tensile Strength and of Thread Tension and the difference between the two. Once you do, you will forever be able to decide on your own what is the correct "twang factor" in your Thread Tension. ...

By my preference, I would align your guides carefully before & while wrapping, and then you can wrap as tightly as you can without (breaking the rod tip or) needing to slide the guides around later after lashing to re-align them. If it's loose enough to move before the epoxy, it will be almost as loose after the epoxy is applied, so what good are loose guide wraps, IMO??? ... -Cliff Hall+++