About two years ago, one of you came up with a little jig you used to center cork disks on your drill press. It was a "self centering" gizmo. Sure would like to get the plans for that if it's still available.
I searched the photo center, but came up short, must be buried real deep.

Thank you in advance for your help.


Good Wrappin !
David A. Fuller,
Great Basin Fishing Rods
Full-Time RV'r Traveling- n- Fishing
www.mytripjournal.com/FullersBigAdventure

RodMaker Magazine volume 1 #5. Full plans included. I have a very copies left for $5 via mail order only.

RodMaker
PO Box 1322
High Point, NC 27261

...........

I use a small table top drill press and the Flexcoat bits, No Jig. Amazingly fast, simple and accurate!! Just hold the ring between thumb and finger and drill. Can't get any easier that that. I'm sure that a hand drill would also work as well

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2006 11:40AM by Mike Barkley.

Tom; probably a lot to ask you on those back issues, but would you be willing to bring them to your booth before they disappear into the abyss?

Maybe I could just throw away my dirty clothes and stuff my suitcases with back issues on the way home...

Putter
Williston, ND

I'll bring what I have left - that's not many. I've just reached the point where the cost of buying and then storing back issues for sales down the road just doesn't pay off. In fact, RodMaker back issues may cease completely during this coming year or only be available for a short time. I've cut my extra quantity bought for back issues sales from 1500 per issue to just 400 per issue.

But yes, I'll have what is available in Charlotte.

.......

Tom and others, thanks for the help.
I'll check my library of past copies see if I've got the #1 - 5 issue.

If others have an idea how to "self center" and hold secure for drilling the center of cork disks post your ideas here. The problem is 1/4 centers need to be 3/8 drilled for easier reaming, by hand.



Good Wrappin !
David A. Fuller,
Great Basin Fishing Rods
Full-Time RV'r Traveling- n- Fishing
www.mytripjournal.com/FullersBigAdventure

You can always chuck up a 1/4 inch bit, run that down into the 1/4 ring bore, lock the quill, and clamp up some guide blocks (V-frame) to hold the ring in that position. Then withdraw the quill, chuck up a 3/8th inch bit and go to work.

.........

I made one similar to the one shown in the photo section using some scrap wood, works great: [www.rodbuilding.org]

David,

I drill all my cork to 3/8's using the method I posted above. With a Flexcoat bit with a 1/4" pilot, it cuts easy, true and no need to secure the ring

Mike

Bob Crook you're the champ ! ! ! That's exactly the photo I was looking for ! ! ! Why in the world I couldn't find it, I don't know.
Thanks, so much !
Mike B, I tried the wood bits for drilling reelseat bores, couldn't get a true smooth hole. Is there a secret to getting the cork NOT to "chunk out".


Good Wrappin !
David A. Fuller,
Great Basin Fishing Rods
Full-Time RV'r Traveling- n- Fishing
www.mytripjournal.com/FullersBigAdventure

Good question - just how do you shape out the bottom cork of a grip to accomodate the hood of an uplocking fly reel seat? Perhaps a template and a Dremel tool?

Paul Dunstan
Northamptonshire
England

Not sure just what you mean by "chunk out" Mine just look like 3/8" holes

Mike

Secrets to a smooth bore:
Forsner bit, high RPM, Slow feed

LH Custom Rods

David, I made my own jig looking at the picture on the website. Instead of using wood to set up the tensioning pin, I used plastic, which is available readily. I my area I can get any thickness, length, etc, from a company called Horn Plastics. The base is laminated wood counter top, which is heavy and will not warp. I used the plastic which is about 1.5 " thick by 3.5" . Works real well because you do not have to worry about split outs, and it is also self lubricating. I just clamp it on my drill press and it takes no time to drill the holes I too use forstner bits, they are the real ticket. Holes are straight, and no split outs in the cork, as mentioned go slow and keep it clean. The bits can be found just about anywhere for reasonable prices. I have two sets, one that goes from 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 etc up to 1" and also purchased a set that is by 1/16ths from grizzly, both sets costed about 20.00. Or you can by them from tool outlets 1 at a time or just the size you need. Just my take on the subject.

David, I made my own jig looking at the picture on the website. Instead of using wood to set up the tensioning pin, I used plastic, which is available readily. I my area I can get any thickness, length, etc, from a company called Horn Plastics. The base is laminated wood counter top, which is heavy and will not warp. I used the plastic which is about 1.5 " thick by 3.5" . Works real well because you do not have to worry about split outs, and it is also self lubricating. I just clamp it on my drill press and it takes no time to drill the holes I too use forstner bits, they are the real ticket. Holes are straight, and no split outs in the cork, as mentioned go slow and keep it clean. The bits can be found just about anywhere for reasonable prices. I have two sets, one that goes from 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 etc up to 1" and also purchased a set that is by 1/16ths from grizzly, both sets costed about 20.00. Or you can by them from tool outlets 1 at a time or just the size you need. Just my take on the subject.

Thanks all, I really appreciate your help on this. Mr. Crook gave me the pic/plans I need and I got several terrific ideas from the rest of you.

I knew I could count on this fine group of craftsmen to come through for me....



Good Wrappin !
David A. Fuller,
Great Basin Fishing Rods
Full-Time RV'r Traveling- n- Fishing
www.mytripjournal.com/FullersBigAdventure