I read the RodMaker Vol. 8, Issue 2 article on the bumper guide.
One question. The article says, "For the first two regular guides and the bumper guide, use double footed guide models." Is there a particular reason why the bumper guide should be double-footed?
After running a search on this board, it seems that the goal of the bumper guide is to keep the line as close to the blank as possible.
I'm building on ISA1266F (10'06"). First two guides will be #12 and #10. Can I use single-footed #8 or #6 as the bumper guide?
My reason for using a sigle-footed for the bumper guide is not the weight, but rather I don't have a double-footed #8 or #6 unless I order. I want to finish this rod with the guides that I have in hand.
Thank you for your time.

A double-footed Bumper Guide has more than TWICE the capacity to resist any force applied to it: either by external impact; or by any force from the loaded rod transferred to the bumper guide's ring by the fishing line, because of the non-ideal conditons that may exist within the bumper guide's ring as the rod flexes during heavy loading. ... What you do with this information is at your discretion. ...

Hopefully, you will be able to guestimate how much, if any, of a lever arm exists for any torque (wrenching) force exerted on the ring of the bumper guide by looking at it. Mr. Tom Kirkman and Mr. Bill Colby, the developers of the Bumper Spiral Wrap, will strenuously exhort the rod-builder to RE-POSITION and / or RE-SIZE the Bumper Guide if there is a serious load imposed on the Bumper Guide at any location around the bumper guide's ring other than DIRECTLY TOWARD & INTO THE ROD BLANK. That point is the 6 o'clock position on the guide ring, when it is sitting feet down and ring up on a bencht top. Any points of contact not between the 7 o'clock and the 5 o'clock position could be cause for concern. Any contact at the 3 o'clock position is a DEFINITE cause for RE-POSITIONING the bumper.

Also keep an eye on the 2nd GUIDE, the FIRST 180 degree, the guide immediately after the 90 degree Bumper Guide. If the deeply flexed condition makes the line NOT TOUCH ANYWHERE INSIDE the first 180 degree guide - WATCH OUT - . Back to Square #1. ... At least one RBO fellow has reported a ROD BLANK FAILURE due to the line contact "SKIPPING" this first 180 degree guide. The line didn't touch it at all, and when the rod was subject to ~12# of reel drag on a spring scale, ... BAMM - clean snap. ... As with ALL rod-design, it may be the details that get you - Keep the big picture in mind for all the guides and the rest of your rod project.

"My reason for using a single-foot for the bumper guide is not the weight, but rather I don't have a double-footed #8 or #6 unless I order. I want to finish this rod with the guides that I have in hand. Thank you for your time." ... Mr. Eijiro Kawada - either way, you can't go too far afield. If you try a single foot and it works, you have saved some time & money, and demonstrated that you could get away with it. For now. You'll luck out, IMO. ... If it FAILS, you can tell yourself, "Oh well, ... They told me so, ..." ...

If you want my advice: Order some double-foots for Bumper Guides that blend with your typical guide styles, in the smaller sizes. I'd also find some other supplies that I need from my vendor, and make the shipping charges worth your while.

Kirkman or Colby may see this Post and respond with an explanation. ...

I'm a high margin of safety type of guy when practicable.
(Usually ! ... LOL !) - Good luck, either way.
-Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2006 08:14AM by Cliff Hall.

The single foot guide type will certainly work. The main reason double footed guides were recommended in this location is that the butt of the rod is rather stiff and any hard knocks and bumps aren't absorbed by the blank as they are nearer the tip. Thus a double foot guide is more likely to remain in place and withstand the normal abuse suffered there.

But a single foot guide will certainly handle the fishing strain - you just have to be a bit more careful in handling, transporting and storing the rod lest you knock something loose there.

...........

I use a single foot BLAG fly type guide with a forhan wrap and have had no problems (so far)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I know that the double-foot guides are more durable, simply by virtue of the extra foot. However, I've not found that I stress my rods in any way that necessitates the higher durability of a double-foot guide. I use all single foot guides--running guides, butt guides, bumper guides, etc.--and I've never had any problem. Granted, I build mostly bass rods, I always use a Forhan locking wrap, and I make sure to properly position all my guides, so that might factor in also. But, I think that a single-foot 6 would work just great for your bumper guide.

They may work well for you ! But when you build one for a charter boat and get people that abuse the rods you may want that double foot guide ??

Eijiro,
I'm building the exact same blank right now and I used a single foot #7, during the distribution it looked like it needed to be a little lower than 90 deg on the blank,but not much more. That said it's my rod so if I bend the guide later I can change it later. My steelhead rod I built on a stretched 1 piece 8 ft popping rod blank has held up well so far with all singlefoot guides on it.