So I've gone back and looked at all of the rods I didn't use CP on as well as some factory rods. What I'm noticing is that where the tunnels have filled with finish, the color of the thread is smoother and a bit darker. This in turn creates a slightly "blushed" look where one spot is darker than the other. It doesn't look bad, but it's certainly not great. I'm surmising that this is because the finish is penetrating the thread from 2 sides.

The question is: Is there a way that I can get better thread penetration so that the entire wrap looks similar to the thread near the guide foot tunnels? Or am what I'm seeing is the best case penetration that I can get with finish?

Note, I've tried to experiment with different techniques, but nothing seems to make this better

The specifics:

U40 LS supreme
Applied at 75 degrees with spatula or brush
Tried thin applications
Tried thin applications with heavy brush/spatula pressure
Tried thick applications with heavy brush/spatula pressure


-- Cheers
-- James

PS thanks for the help on the problems I've had with CP Ralph O' Quinn. Based on your input, I found out that the CP I had from Gudebrod simply was old and needed to be replace. The thinning I did is now a thing of the past, and I get it right with single coat applications of CP now.

the bamboo rod builders seem to have this down pretty well. of course they all use varnish with a few exceptions. some do use thined flexcoat as well for their first coat and them follow with varnish. i think one of the keys to good penitration is to not wrap too tight. the other is to use thin coating for the first coat. when using varnish don't let the first coat dry completely before applying the next coat. those guys get some absolutely transparent wraps that are very even. one trick is the slow the drying process. the bamboo guys do this by mixing polymerized walnut oil with the varnish on the first coat. it takes a very long time to dry and so penitrates the thread very well.

If you want to really penetrate the thread you might try Gudebrod 822, Tru-oil, Klass Kote, or my new favorite, Wipe On Polyurethane. You then finish with an epoxy topcoat. You should add a blocking wrap if you are not currently using one to help with the back lighting phenomenon and to fill the tunnel.

There is no reason for the finish to penetrate the thread. The tunnels are filled from the ends. The reason the thread shade changes there is because the thread is over a different colored background - it's no longer over the blank directly, but rather over a hollow area. This generally produces a little darker shade in that area.

.........

Tom,

I hate to do it, but I would disagree with that statement of the color being affected by the tunnel. When looking at the guide, you can see that the color change starts at the tunnel, and will in some cases bleed completely around the entire thread wrap, but not for the entire wrap. Sorry that I didn't include that important info in the original post! Now I figured that this was because I tended to apply finish to the guide tunnels first, which seemed to penetrate better. I wished there was a way to take a good enough foto of this to illustrate what I'm talking about, but alas I don't have the technology good enough for this.

Now as for penetration of the thread, I was under the impression that in order to get a "good finish" this was required. Aren't finishes like LS Supreme and Flex Coat formulated to do this? If this is not the case, then I've been working under false assumptions and would need some guidance on this! :)


-- Cheers
-- James

Used in warm enough ambient temperatures and before they start setting up, the finishes will encapsulate the thread. I don't think they penetrate the individual thread, just totally surround it on all sides.

Putter
Williston, ND

I get nice, even penetration on wraps everytime...but I never burnish or mess with them after they are on. Tried it once and got a pretty mediocre result, seemed like the thread gets compressed and flattened on the surface and the epoxy doesn't penetrate very well. I like it when a drop is put on and the thread @#$%& it up, never have problems with bubbles so I see no reason to change.