I have a reasonably well-equipped shop (i.e., hybrid table saw, joiner, thickness planer, floor and bench drill presses, router table et al.); however, I do not own a lathe, nor have I ever turned anything. I am considering turning my own grips using Andy's cork, but I would like to avoid wasting a lot of expensive material learning how to turn. For those who turn their own grips, how difficult was it to get the hang of the process? How much cork did you waste before turning your first useable grip? Are jigs/fixtures available that simply the process? What is the easiest fly rod grip style to turn (I am assuming cigar)? Finally, what kind of lathe do you use? I am looking for something that is small enough to be moved outside by a single middle-aged man because, even though I have a dust collector in my shop, I have developed wood allergies that have prevented me from using any power tool that produces mostly fine dust (i.e., I have switched to hand planing and scrapping instead of sanding where possible).





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2006 12:21AM by Mark Van Ditta.

I read all the post here, decided on the best approach. For me that was off the blank , using a progression of sandpaper grits (btw, as soon as Andy's mandrels came out I bought a set and they help a lot). On my first, I didn't attempt any inlays, I went slow, stopping often to check progress and imo my first one was useable.

Cigar is probably the easiest, but you shouldn't shy a way from the others if one of them is your preferred shape. I use a Jet mini that is reasonably portable, although I keep mine in a shed that is away from the workshop where I do all my assembly, wrapping, etc

second grip was GREAT for me. the first, i made a small error in calculation and sanded the rear too much to match the reel seat check AND the overall grip was a bit out of center. any other potential probles i was warned about by reading the archives here at RB.org. there aren't any thing to go wrong, it's rather simple.

eric
fresno, ca.

I have never wasted cork ring number one, I also shape off the blank. Now when I glue up and press the cork I place a composite cork ring on the winding check end of the foregrip or the end cap end of the rear grip, I also use 1-1/8" of EVA colored foam planning that the blank will partially extending into this end cap bumper to giving the foam structual security and the rod some sort of impact absorbing charateristics. I place the attached EVA foam cork combo over a threaded 3/8" rod, the rod into the drill, and this drill/rod combo securely clamped into make shift portable lathe made up of a vice mounted on a piece of 5/4 decking in which I secure a hand drill. There is an upright placed on the opposite end of the decking base distanced away such that when the driil is clamped in place there is approx 12" of space between the drill chuck and the vertical end board; that has a hole it it corresponding with where the drill points. I place a 3/8" threaded rod in the drill (which also serves as a cork press when gluing) clamping it down then placing the other end of the threaded rod into the pre aligned 3/8" hole in the vertical board and spin away. I place masking tape under the cork at three points along the threaded rod to take up the space and make the grip fit and spin in a true round fashion. I prefit/ream and number each cork ring before glue up to exactly where it will sit on the blank. A washer / butterfly nut combo secure it from slipping down the 3/8" threaded rod. A nut/washer combo is fixed on drill end of the rod. I just use sandpaper to shape the cork and basicly eye it, looking at what shape is desired and shaping half the grip at a time, cutting 1st with a 100 grit then 150, 200, and ultimatly 400 final sanding before and after filling the cork voids. I try to be awear of what end of the cork being shaped ajoins what rod component like a hooded reel seat and the lower end of the foregrip I make sure theses two diameters are similar. As for all the dust; this is very dusty I make sure to set up the operation so the cork dust is carried away from you a mask might also be helpful for the enevitable dusting.

I am well beyond middle age and without previous lathe experience. In the past five years I have progressed through steps using a small metal lathe for turning wood reel seats, to a Grizzly drill lathe for the same purpose plus cork grips, to a Jet midi lathe I've had for three years. Had I started with the Jet I would have been ahead but I had fair success and education by all. If you wish to turn wood grips get a Jet or similar mini lathe. For cork grips the Grizzly drill operated lathe will get you by but given the tools you now possess I think you will be happier with a midi wood lathe or larger. You should have no problem turning a good cork grip on your first try. Go easy to start with and work with sharp tools.
I built a bench for my Jet midi with casters that I roll outside when the weather permits. Email me if you have any further specific questions and I'll do my best to help.



Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

I think my first one was probably not the best. But its pretty easy. At least if you're handy enough to do that sort of stuff. By your tool list I would suspect that you're good enough with your hands to easily get the hang of it. When I started turning grips I was already a professional woodworker but had not turned anything before.

I do all my cork work on Andy's mandrels. Best way to do it in my opinion. ZERO chance for ruining your blank. You can do your grips without even having the blank.

The dust may be an issue. Cork dust is worse than most wood dust.

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

I have a Grizzly hobby lathe. I have never ruined a grip because like most of the responses you got above, I also went slow. It has been a while since I did any wood turning so I needed to get back to feeling confident when I first started turning handles a few years ago. The most important tool I have is a set of calipers. Stop often and check what you are doing against either a sketch or an example you are duplicating. I only use sandpaper and start with 60 or 80 grit and progress to 100, then 150, 220 and finally 600 (wet/dry). I just like the silky feel the 600 gives but you dont have to use it. The main shape is all done with the 60 grit. After that, it is just getting the final dimensions and smoothing the cork.
I like the single wells the best and so that is what I do the most of on fly rods. I turn more handles for bass casting rods than anything. Some are straight and some are more fitted. There are some good patterns in the back issues of Rodmaker. I have one handle I really like so the ones for me look very similar since I used it as the pattern.
The only problem I have is forgetting to put the wax on the mandrel and breaking the grip when I try to get it off. You dont do that very often before it becomes ingrained. I have also mounted my Grizzly on a 6' piece of 2"x12" pine and use it on a set of sawhorses in my garage. If the dust bothers you, then you will almost have to go outside because it is really dusty some times. This arrangement is very portable and easy to handle (light) for an old geezer like me.
I would get some junk cork or el cheapo stuff and practice if you are worried. I know the stuff Andy sells is great but with care, the first one will be just what you wanted. The best thing you can do is check dimensions often when you first start because it is easy to go too far too fast and once it is too small, it becomes a foregrip for a casting rod or for the next kid rod you build.
Best of luck

Whoops--I meant to say 1" x 12" not 2" x 12"----@J($%*&^ keyboard and my brain dont work together sometimes!

If you're worried about ruining $$$ cork, buy some 2nd grade burl cork. It's pretty cheap, and you can get the hang of reaming to fit a mandrel, glueing up, turning, coating with sealer, etc. The burl doesn't turn as quickly as the regular cork, so you're not as likely to slip and ruin a grip. When you go to regular cork, just use a slightly lighter touch.

It's really easy--much easier than most woodworking projects, IMO. You'll do great on your first grip. As with all woodworking, good, progressive sanding covers over a multitude of sins.

As in so many endeavors, good background information coupled with some practical experience will do wonders for your learning curve. Don't despair if your first few don't come out so well - each one will get better until you'd almost be able to do them in your sleep. Few master grip turning on their first few attempts, keep at it and in the end it will be a rewarding skill that also allows you to offer your customers more than just the usual off-the-shelf pre-formed grip.

...........

I wanted to add a powered respirator is great for the lungs and for face protection. I purchased the Triton powered respirator from Woodcraft about a month ago, for the money you can not beat in for health, safety and quality. I learn everything the hard way, wish I would have bought it two weeks sooner than I did.

Mark,
Not to give you a sale's pitch, but if you'd spend $29.99 and buy my DVD...all your problems would be solved, and all your questions answered in less than 1 hour and 10 min.


Andy Dear
Lamar Mfg.
210-845-7456

What Andy said :)

I turned my first cork grip on a drill press with a mandrel spinning inside a bearing that had been pressed into the plate of the drill press. Worked great, but a little strange to work on it vertically.

I've used a little Hirsch (sp?) drill powered lathe for a lot of cork work since then. If cork is all you will be doing, that setup works great too. Again, use mandrels...save your expensive blanks :).

However, since you sound artistically and woodworking inclined, I'd highly suggest a little wood lathe setup like I just got. I got the PSI Turncrafter, their Barracuda chuck, a set of midi lathe tools from Woodcraft, and a boatload of pen blanks. I'm already turning out some pretty nice seat inserts and will be moving on to full grips and so on in the near future. Heck, use it to turn table legs, bowls, salt and pepper shakers, pens, etc...I am having a blast with mine :)

Scott Kinney
The Longest Cast Fly Rods
[www.thelongestcast.com]

Mark,

One thing that may help wiyh the dust (besides a mask) is a simple box fan (turned backwards) with a VERY GOOD furnace filter taped to it pressed right up behind the lathe. Doesn't do a lot for shavings, but you'd be amazed at the job it does on dust. [www.rodbuilding.org]



Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Andy Dear Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mark,
> Not to give you a sale's pitch, but if
> you'd spend $29.99 and buy my DVD...all your
> problems would be solved, and all your questions
> answered in less than 1 hour and 10 min.
>
>

Andy:

I do believe that you could sell ice cubes to Eskimos! :-)

Mark,

I'm like you in that I'm just started turning cork. I'm not old hat to rod building, but I hope I can help you steepen the learning curve. So I'm in the same stage as you. Actually turning cork is relatively easy, and a lot of fun. I've been a pain in Andy's butt lately, but go to his web site, and get your mandrel. You have got to have one to turn cork properly.

When, it comes to the dust problem. You can either buy a unit, or you can build one. I had an old furnace that I salvaged the squirrel cage out of it, and built a turning table. I enclosed the fan inside a box, and built a table on top of it to support my lathe. I can turn cork in my kitchen, and all the dust ends up in the filter. Turning cork is fun, sneezing cork dust for 3 days is not. It's especially bad when you screw up the cork handle, then have to deal with the allergies.

I will gladly help you out with the lathe table. You do a lot of the work on cork with sandpaper. That put's a lot of really fine stuff in the air. Luckily it doesn't take much to get that out ot the air. A squirrel cage is the best, but any fan will help. If you need help with a plan, I can help.

Best wishes,
Mitch

Mark - Andy's DVD is worth the price, especially for a new turner. Get it. You'll be happy you did.


..........

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.