I'm haviing trouble with getting a smooth and dead level base layer and cover layer of Fex coat lite on a rod decal. It seems to be bumpy and ripply and acts like it's too thick to level out properly. The base coat is not so bad as I can work it a little more with a brush but the cover coat is the biggest problem. I have found that too much brushing causes the decals to smudge and look bad. I don't want to thin it because most thinners, such as acetone, are death on decals. Somebody must have figured this out. Any suggestions??

Generally, the more you fuss and play with a finish in an area like this, the more trouble created for yourself. Putting on the right amount and letting it self level is the key.

Get the finish on there and allow it to sag to the bottom of the rod to show uneven areas and if there's just way too much on it. With a little practice, you'll soon know how much is too much.

Too much and the finish won't be able to self level and it'll be bumpy and wavy.

But, too little and it doesn't level either. There's a point in between, and there really is a good window here, that the finish will level and shine great for you.

Approach the problem with this view in mind, a bit of practice, and you'll get it down easily.

Putter
Williston, ND

I haven't had a problem coating decals with regular build flexcoat that has been thinned with acetone. I usually add 4 drops of acetone to thin it out a bit. I also use an alcohol lamp to heat up the finish a bit if it needs to flow a bit more.

One thing to make sure of is that the rod is PERFECTLY level. If the blank isn't level, the finish can't be level. It sounds like you may be putting to much finish on. Like Randy said, just enough to coat. let sit until it flows to the bottom and sags. Wick off the sags and rotate 180 degrees and repeat. When the sagging pretty much stops turn on your dryer and you should have a nice level finish..
Not sure what you mean by "work with it" but once you have coverage and got rid of the excess, leave it alone and let the finish do what it was intended to do.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Decal? Waterslide or peel and stick. Big difference as to the answer to your question.

If this is a waterslide edge rippling issue when topping with Flexcoat it can be minimized with the appliction of a coat of Micro Sol and let it properly dry before the application of a coat of finish.

Also, wait for at least 5 -6 minutes after mixing of finish and pouring into aluminum pan. If finish is "applied too green Roger Seider" proposes the internal forces as polymerizaion sets in will cause the finish to move around, on its own, in funny ways. He instructs in his videos to apply finish to guides first and before you try to get level finishes on butt wraps and decals to wait a few minutes before application. You can observe this by applying fresh finish to a decal surface while the rod is static. Watch the edge of the decal and it will start dimpling about four or five minutes after it has been sitting perfectly still. Liquids normally will self level if left alone but this stuff will suddenly have a pimpled surface appear out of nowhere when it was perfectly level before.

If you are dealing with a peel and stick the thicker edge will make the same set of circumstances listed above to be a little more pronounced. I would tend to wait even a little longer before applying finish to a butt peel and stick. If you are in the habit of starting you finish application on the butt end it may help to start doing the guides first and holding off on the butt area until last.

I wish Roger would start using a computer while he is down after his bicycle accident and give us answers on finish from the horses mouth. Mr. Anderson if you read this post print it and give it to HIM to read!

Gon Fishn





Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2006 05:24PM by Bill Stevens.

Bill; I agree with the Micro Sol deal and use it faithfully over every waterslide decal, but I have to disagree with any part of finish doing weird things over waterslide decals when freshly mixed, even if Roger said that. At least, I've certainly never experienced it, anyhow.

I've put many hundreds of waterslides on ink pens and fishing rods in the past year. I place the decal on, blot off the water, apply Micro Sol, and lower a swing-arm-lamp (60 watt bulb) very close to the decal area of the pen or rod while the rod/pen is rotating. I immediately get out my finish, measure and then mix it thoroughly and apply it to the decal area.

The whole time frame after placing the decal and blotting any excess moisure to getting out the finish and measuring and mixing it is 15 minutes tops. I put the finish on immediately after mixing it thoroughly and have not had a bad finish job except for the occasional piece of dust or darned mosquito (and I haven't had that mosquito problem in several months, now... hmmmm??). I've done it with Flex Coat, LS Supreme, Rod Smith, and 1 Coat.

On peel and stick decals, I've had some big time fish eye problems when that outer clear coat is removed after burnishing it. I've also had the edges of these peel and sticks lift at times (especially the smaller, thinner areas such as a mermaid's hair or tail) after finish application. A simple solution to this is a quick coat of CP or a fixative such as Krylon clear before applying the finish.





Putter
Williston, ND

I use FlexCoat Lite exclusively (up to this point), and have put it over waterslide decals repeatedly with no problems leveling or causing rippling of the decal. I begin with a coat of finish before the decal is applied, then one or two coats after. I use Micro Set in the process, and make sure I wait the prescribed length of time after applying the decal before applying the 2nd coat. I have a system for mixing and applying the FlexCoat that hasn'r failed me since I started using it. I begin by placing the bottles of Part A & B in warm water for about ten minutes. I line a glass ash tray from WalMart with aluminum foil. I mark my plastic mixing cup with a Sharpie, to help in measuring. I never use syringes..too messy, you have to clean them, and I find I am more accurate with just the pointed spout of the bottles. Put Part B in the cup first, then A, equal parts. I mix no less than 2 drams total. I mix for three minutes, never less. I pour the finish into the ash tray, let it rest, and hit it once or twice with my alcohol torch. Warming it up in the water seems to help level the finish, and virtually eliminates all bubbles. If your decal has been on for twelve hours, you shouldn't worry about the finish hurting it, and the decal is so thin that it doesn't interfere with the leveling. I do rough up the finish around the decal before applying the next coat, since it has cured for twelve or more hours. I want to make sure to get a good bond.

If the decal application is good, the finish shouldn't affect it.