I want to build a set of 30# trolling outfits to be used in the Mid Atlantic region. I am planning on using a glass blank for durability and was considering four Calstar models, both 6'. I don't want to make a mistake and buy a blank made for throwing live bait so I am looking for input. The blanks I am looking at are: 6460L, 6460, 660L, 660.
Is anyone familiar with these blanks?
Thanks

Brian

Brian,
I make a fair number of these for use in the Chesapeake Bay usually the 660Ls for the Bay and 660M/s or H's for off-shore. I like working (and fishing) with these rods. Proably because I like to see the tip of the rod bend over rather than fish with broomsticks.

BRIAN, LIKE KEN I USE A LOT OF CALSTAR. I USUALLY BASE THE DESISION ON THE ACTUAL LINE VALUE TO BE USED. IN THE NORTHEAST MOST GUYS WHO USE A 30 INTERNATIONAL STYLE REEL WILL OFTEN LOAD IT WITH 40- 50 LB TEST. IF THATS YOUR PLANS THE T660H 30-80 LB AT 6' IS A GOOD CHOICE. IF YOU HAVE OUTBOARD ENGINES CONSIDER THE T665H, ITS THE SAME POWER AT 6 1/2', ALLOWING MORE REACH PAST THE ENGINES. BE CAREFULL WITH THEIR RT30, ITS MORE LIMBER THAN THE AVERAGE 30, THE OTHER CHOICES WILL HAVE MORE BUTT FIGHTING POWER.
KEVIN BOGAN

Kevin,
I get past the "distance" past motors, shafts & screws by using Stuart Tuff Butt complete reel seat/ sleeve. You have to knock a couple of inches off the 660's so they fit inside the Tuff Butts - but using 19" models I've effectively got 12" of "play around/ adjustment" distance for the total lenght of the rod. The beefy nature of the CalStar's makes that possible.
Ken

I'm a West coast big boat angler, and have never trolled 30# (except in skiffs around the bays, and never thought about rod action), so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics you desire. I personnally would avoid the L model and go to the 660 or 6460 for 30#.
With lighter line like 30#, I generally go to the 64 series, as there's not that much load on my back running 10# of drag.

The big difference between the 2 models is the shut off point. The 660 is more parabolic, and bends through closer to the handle. In heavier drag settings, it takes some of the load off the angler by absorbing shock.
The 6460 is ex-fast and shuts off further out the rod. The Calstar ratings are consistent in the rod line up.
655 vs 6455, 660 vs 6460, 760 vs 7460. When you add the 4, it becomes less parabolic, or ex-fast.

I typically fish the 655, 660 series for tuna, where I'm not going to be dealing with structure or bottom. Around structure, I prefer the 6455, 6460 series with more backbone and shutdown to turn the fish.

Thanks for all of the information guys. This is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'll be staying away from the L models. Now I need to decide between the standard (0) or the H model. I was afraid of the H models because I thought they would be too beefy for 30# line but I'll have to go back and look at the specs a little closer. Harold, I like your description on the the blank numbers/ratings. The areas we fish don't have much in the way of structure but some areas do see other boat pressure so the ability to turn a fish in a fleet is advantageous. Ken, the rods will be wearing nylon butts, not sure if I'll use the Stuart's or not, but the way you mention of adjusting lenth is interesting. Right now I'm leaning towards the American Tackle nylon buts with Aftco aluminum seats and due to the blank butt O.D. it looks like there will be some trimming going on. I'll take another look at the Stuart butts. Kevin, you hit the nail on the head with bumping up the line rating a bit. That is standard practice with our 50s (which all sport 60# line) but I'm not sure I'll run more than 30# on these, if I do it would be 40# which would push me more in the direction of the H models.
With all of these decisions it's a good thing I have 5 more months before I will need to use these rods but I guess that's what makes rod building so enjoyable, custom tailoring a stick to suit your individual style and circumstances.
Again, thanks to all of you guys for your input. If you think of anything else that I should consider let me know.

Brian



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2006 09:38AM by Brian Lynch.

Brian -
Keep in mind that it's the reel drag not the lb test of the line that the rod is working against. Your drag on the reel should be a low percentage of your line rating. One reason that I lean toward the Stuart Tuff Butt is ease of assembly - the reel seat is permanently part of the internal aluminium tube - and the nylon sleeve is roughly equivalent to the American Tackle sleeves but fit smoothly over the aluminium. That and by the time you cost out the AFTCO reel seat plus AmTak sleeve (and 'bench time') you aren't saving that much.

Ken
My initial reluctance to the Stuart Tuff Butt was that I was not familiar with that component. I have never seen one and haven't heard much about their reel seats. Since yesterday I did a search on the topic and found nothing but positive responses to them so I am now seriously considering their use. You are also correct in that there is not much cost difference and the time savings more than makes up for that. The only other concern I had was that the nylon slick butts had a larger I.D. so I thought I would be able to get away without trimming the blank by using these. I've never shortened a blank before and I was concerned about compromising the blank integrity. It looks like that is common practice on installation with these seat assemblies though (as well as the unibutts) so that is probably the way to go. Question....when you trim the blank do you install any sort of 'ballast' to the butt to balance the rod out or is the aluminum sleve of the Tuff Butt of sufficient weight to address that?
Brian

No reason to "counter balance" the aluminium tube off sets the difference. The only thing that you have to do is account for any taper of the blank towards the tip of the rod that's inside the tube. To do that I use fiberglass dry wall tape and rod bond. In all liklelyhood you'll only need 3-5 passes of the tape to account for the taper inside the tube. It's a very fast/simple assembly process. Hint - the sleeve is molded so it has two slight ridges - use those to line up the reel seat and gimbal nocks and you're good to go. You can also then use that same line for any dcorative wraps and setting the guides either in conventional style (on top of the rod blank) or in spiral wrap since joining ridges are 180 degrees off.