I am attempting the first bamboo fly rod. I am wondering if the same methods and materials used to glue up a seat/grip on a graphite blank will work on the bamboo. Epoxies, arbors, etc. Also, I assume there are no "spine" issues with a bamboo. Is that correct?

I use the same epoxy for both graphite and bamboo reel seats and grips: Rod Bond. Because of the hexagonal shape of the blank, Rod Bond fills the gap better than a thinner epoxy.

There is no spine, per se, but there is a definite curve to every bamboo section. I mount the guides on the flat that forms the outside (convex) part of the curve, which would be the spine of a graphite blank.

Jim

as jim says, find the flat that makes the blank curve. i have this curve toing UP so that when the rod sags in its normal position it straightens out.
as for wraps, you can use epoxy but most builders use spar varnish on the wraps. don't feel you have to use silk either. nylon is acceptable and many good production rods used nylon thread. dress your guide feet just like you would with graphite.

If your blank has a curve to it, either send it back to the maker to be straightened, or do it yourself if that's not possible, a bamboo blank should be straight. It will most likely have a spine, which you can find as you would a graphite blank. If you use a premade grip, you can just use the rod itself to ream it, twist the grip around the rod as you work it into position, I do this with individual rings then glue them to each other and the rod at the same time and then turn the grip to shape. You will more likely have to turn the end of the butt section down to accomodate the reel seat, unless it is a very small rod, then you might need to build up the blank or have the insert bored to match the blank. Use whatever you want for guides and thread, but the blank will need a finish on it either before or after you wrap it, unles it is impregnated, spar varnish or urethane or an oil finish such as Tru-oil all work fine.
john

Actually, the natural curve on either type of blank is not the spine - it's the natural curve or warp. On either, the spine would the outside of the pressured curve when the blank is pressured and allowed to come to rest in its preferred location. The outside of the natural curve will be the stiffest axis, but this is rarely opposite the spine.

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Do any of you bamboo builders sell rod blanks? I would like to buy one if it's not too expensive! Please let me know. Thanks, Gene P S probably a 71/2 ft. 3-4 wt.

Most makers will sell blanks. The best priced makers I've found are Chris Carlin at www.farnorthrodsmiths.com and Mike Brooks at Brooksbamboo.com. Mike used to offer building kit which includes everything you need to finish the rod and once you price them out, it turns out to be a super deal. I got his Payne 97 and I can hit the nose of a rising trout from 40 feet away. Don't be fooled by a bamboo, it's quite fast and powerful. His 4wt landed many bows over 20" which is pretty good for New England.

PM

Gene,

You might also consider a Michigan rodmaker named Mark Fitch. He sells on "an online @#$%& site beginning with E" at shockingly low prices and his quality and craftsmanship are excellent. I tried one out of curiousity (PY Perfectionist taper) and was very impressed although have ultimately concluded I personally prefer the lightness of graphite. I built it using Rod Bond to glue up the handle, nylon thread, Gudebrod 822 varnish on wraps, and Tru-Oil to seal the bamboo. It was no more difficult than starting with a graphite blank.

i will second the recommendation of mark fitch and also add jeff fultz out of denver.

Mark Fitch on @#$%& is the best deal and a great blank, but he usually offers single tip blanks and many 'boo guys want the traditional 2. Mike Brooks offers beautiful blanks with 2 tips. Pay the extra to get the blank ferruled up by the maker. Fitch and Brooks impregnate their blanks, so a wipe on coat or two of Tru-oil and you are ready to wrap. Size 50 silk is about a 00 and more elegant than size A/0 nylon. I would build on the curve, even though the tip might have a spine, if you could find it. Mike puts on the tip top where he thinks it should go and will also put on the cork. I have an extra Fitch midge blank if you cannot get one from him right away. Don

Thanks to all of you for the info! Great help to me as I do the first one. So much goo info on this thread that I long for a "Printer Friendly" button.