Or do you just make the thread tight up against the check and hold it in place that way?

Both. I put the thread tight agains the check and then when I apply finish on the thread I try to get the check glued in place with the finish. (I use either permagloss or epoxy- they both work)

Ed Smith

I have glued them on my first three rods but on my next I will not. There is no need to do so. Also if the winding check is not a perfect fit I found when gluing it you will probobly get it off center which makes it difficult to to but a perfect trim wrap against it. Some of the thread will slide under more in different areas making the edge of the trim wrap uneven. When it is not glued the thread will force it into an even position. The thread and finish will lock things into place very nicely. Good wraps Tom.

When I get done sliding the foregrip in place, I dry clean the epoxy from the blank using no alcohol or acetone (dry paper towel). Leaves just enough residue to slide the winding check in place without a buildup. I position it then clean the remaining glue off the blank with alcohol. Randy.

IME if one does not glue the check into place and thus block the finish from getting "inside" the check the finish gets wicked or sucked in by the capillar force and eventually also comes out of the base of the check making the result to be messy.

I put a chamfer on the back inside diameter of the check. It's a gap for the epoxy to go to when I press them in place. No squeeze out that way. More than anything else, I want a seal for the grip. Don't want any water wicking in there.

I glue them in place. I found that if I marble the area in front of the check and the winding check isn't glued into place, the colored finish wicks it's way under the check and out the top onto the foregrip.

Putter
Williston, ND

Hello Leon,

If the winding check fits with no gaps, then I place a small amount of rod Bond (or other slow curing paste epoxy glue) on the inside of the winding check using a fly tying bodkin and fit it firmly against the grip. If a small amount of the glue seeps out, I remove it with a rag moistened with alcohol. I then wrap my thread from the winding check up to to the hook keeper which I have taped in place.

If the winding check is a little large, I wrap some thread starting at the grip. I then fit the winding check over the thread and glue as described above. After letting the glue cure, I remove the excess thread up to the edge of the winding check. I then wrap as described above.

If the winding check is too small, I will ream it out by spiral wrapping a self-sticking sanding pad which I cut into strips on a piece of rod blank until it fits. I then proceed with the process described in the first paragraph. I have yet to have any winding check come loose. The fit is always neat and concentric with the grip and blank.

I use either nickel/silver or anodized aluminum winding checks. I haven't tried this with rubber/vinyl chacks. Good luck with your project.

Mike Blomme

I wrap thread all the way to the grip, put an undercoat on the thread, and then slide the check over the thread against the grip. This makes removal of the check a lot easier if the grip needs to come off later on and a neater finish overall. There is no shear point at the check. Of course I don't do thread art or hook keepers up against the grip with this method.

I prefer to glue mine against the top of my grip. If the particular winding check self-centers on its own, I like that. If it's slightly larger than the blank, I try a layer of thread under the check. Either way I adhere with five minute epoxy and if not centered on its own, I simply hold the winding check against the grip for the time the epoxy takes to start setting up.

Jeff Shafer