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Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Tim Collins (---.sanarb01.mi.comcast.net)
Date: November 27, 2005 03:25PM

I'm pretty sure I want to go with a Turncaster Pro lathe for turning cork handles. If I wanted to turn cork that's glued to the blank, would it be better to epoxy a nylon bushing in the butt to rest against the live center in the tail stock or just put the blank's butt against it? Thanks.

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Mike Ballard (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 27, 2005 07:07PM

I dont' think that lathe is long enough to do that. At any rate, you would never put the blank against a live center. You would have to buy or make steady rests with wheels to support it. This is the way wood turners do things when turning long and slender spindles.

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Anonymous User (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 27, 2005 08:57PM

Mike I am sending email to mballard@post.com - is that your correct email address.

Thanks

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Levi Farster (---.essex1.com)
Date: November 28, 2005 03:40AM

Mr. collins,

I understand what you mean. Sounds fine, I see no problem putting the blank on the live center as long as you dont apply too much side pressure, a nylon or nylatron bushing would probably be better, but maybe not worth the effort of searching for exact size. Also, what about support for the blank stickin out the front? ( I assume you will be inserting the blank through the headstock and chuck untill a few inches from the cork.) Sounds fine though. Let me know how it turns out, I have given some thought to buying a small lathe for that very purpose, and am curious as to your results. dyingtreeforge@yahoo.com P.S. Dont squeeze the blank too much. seems obvious, but I have heard that sharp "snap" that signals disaster.

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Bill Moschler (---.westk01.tn.comcast.net)
Date: November 28, 2005 09:49PM

I sand my cork that way. That is, I put the blank through the 3 jaw chuck and run a live center in the end of the blank. It always worries me a little, but so far I have had no problems. I use a little PSI scroll chuck that I can feel the pressure very well, I use rubber strips on the jaws, I tape the blank, and sometimes I put a thread wrap on the end of the blank for the live center and sometimes a dry warp under the chuck jaws. I use pretty light pressure and have to retighten about 4 times usually from start to finish on a grip.

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Stan Gregory (---.dyn.sprint-hsd.net)
Date: November 28, 2005 09:59PM

Bill (Moschler), do you any sort of support on the blank that protrudes thru the headstock to keep it from whipping? I've been wanting to try something like that, when I get up the nerve. Stan

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Ted Morgan (---.tvlres.jcu.edu.au)
Date: November 28, 2005 10:23PM

I think a rear chuck like on a pool cue making lathe would be really nice to have. Combined with rubber on the jaws, some tape of the blank and careful tightening of the chucks, whipping would be reduced/eliminated.

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Re: Question on turning cork glued to the blank.
Posted by: Bill Moschler (---.ag.utk.edu)
Date: November 30, 2005 09:51AM

Yeah. You have to watch the part that protrudes. Most of the rods I work on are 3 or 4 piece so the butt section is short and stiff. I put a piece of tape around the rod where it will hit the back edge of the headstock if it whips. Never tried it on a one piece. Have done 2 piece with no problems.

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