In making new ferrules for multi-piece rods, what kind of fibreglass rods do you guys recommend for cutting to make the ferrules. I've got another couple of UL and L action rod blanks, and want to tinker with making a 3 piece. The main problem I have with sourcing glass is that a lot of it is VERY thick walled. Looking to make neater, less bulkier ferrules than on my Loomis and my other 3 piece.

Ted
S glass work real well for ferrules.
A good source would be Lamiglass, St Croix, fenwick rods. Others may know more sources too.
There is a good article in the back issues by Ralph O'Qinn telling about how to make ferrules.
Regards Joe Kassuba
HIS Rod Shop

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

Hey Ted you break that thunder stick of yours, did the West Indies call you up to bat with it. You might have done a better job with it than they are doing with the bat. LOL

Go the Aussies!

Haha Myles. It seems I am the only West Indian in Australia that has something good going on. Want to turn a sweet 1 piece I got cheap into a 3 piece travel stick for a doubter. Looking for a good combination on thinner walls and strength. It's only a light spin rod rod. Doing it to prove a point that my two other 3 piecers that I knocked up work just fine. Big queenies, mangrove jack and barra haven't hurt the Loomis yet. The reel's shagged though!

Got a pearl yesterday: The Windies were in the match, right up to the toss!!

Ted I will have a look down here in the trash and treasure bins at the tip over the next few days and see what I can find. But as you know most Aussie fibreglass rods were solid.

You could try looking at Forecast " 2003 " e-glass blanks

Ted;
Even a THICK wall section that matches requirements for ID will work. Just sand down the OD to the thickness you desire.
If that fails, or doesn't seem a good way to go for you then with some firbreglass roving, mat, or cloth and epoxy you could probably
roll your own on a metal mandrel or even a dowel sized to fit and well smoothed and waxed heavily so the epoxy doesn't stick to it.
I made up a ferrule for a tip section with a layer of graphite matte and two layers of .75 oz cloth. It took a bit more
work than sanding down a piece of broken rod - but the end result was much thinner. The rod was mine and I have to admit to not
having used it daily but so far it has held up about 16 months or so and has caught several bream (bluegill) and small bass from small
ponds I fish.
David A.

Ted;
Even a THICK wall section that matches requirements for ID will work. Just sand down the OD to the thickness you desire.
If that fails, or doesn't seem a good way to go for you then with some firbreglass roving, mat, or cloth and epoxy you could probably
roll your own on a metal mandrel or even a dowel sized to fit and well smoothed and waxed heavily so the epoxy doesn't stick to it.
I made up a ferrule for a tip section with a layer of graphite matte and two layers of .75 oz cloth. It took a bit more
work than sanding down a piece of broken rod - but the end result was much thinner. The rod was mine and I have to admit to not
having used it daily but so far it has held up about 16 months or so and has caught several bream (bluegill) and small bass from small
ponds I fish.
David A.

Thanks a bunch guys. I think the e-glass blanks would be my best bet. Will order a couple over the holidays in addition to other stuff. Wouldn't want to chop up a decent s-glass blank.
David, that's a great tip, thanks. Myles, appreciate any help you can give. You're right: most Aussie fibreglass rods I've handled were either solid or VERY thick walled. If I had access to a decent lathe i could sand down quite easily, but I don't right now.

A drill will work also.