I am considering using Gorilla glue to attatch individuel cork rings for my handle. In the past I have used two part epoxy, but I am looking for a product that is quicker, simpler, but effective. Has anyone out there had any experiance with this product on cork handles.?

Thanks Greg

The thing with Gorilla glue is that it "swells" as it dries so I'm not sure how tight your rings would stay together even if clamped. I believe one of the preferred adhesives for cork is Titebond III which is waterproof. It also dries to about the same color as cork as well.

Gorilla Glue only works in the presence of moisture, be sure to read the instructions if you decide to use it.

For ease of use, just get yourself some TiteBond II or III and go to work. This is a great product for gluing up cork rings.

.................

I've used Weldwood Contact Cement with good results, but haven't used the rods enough to know how it holds up over a long period of hard use. So far so good though.

The titebond II or III is great for gluing your rings to each other. But for gluing the rings to the blank itself, I don't think you would want to use anything other than epoxy or Rod Bond. I have seen with Gorilla glue, if you don't have things perfectly clamped, you end up with glue lines between the cork rings.

Plus Goriila Glue takes a bunch longer to set than Titebond.

Greg:

I have used Gorilla Glue as well as Titebond III, and 2 part epoxy to glue up cork rings. Of the three adhesives, Titebond III seems to be the easiest to use as well as producing good bonds. Gorilla glue is a urethane product that catalizes in the presence of moisture. It does form a good bond, with very small glue lines. It also swells to fill voids. In swelling to fill voids, it has moved through a loose fit between cork rings and blank and produced lovely tan blobs that were a devil to clean off the rod. Once I used it to glue up rings on a mandrel. After cutting the grip, I could not get it to loosen from the mandrel, and had to destroy the grip in order to same and clean the mandrel. Never again! It has a tendency to stain your hands a delightful brown-black until you can get the @)#(*%%*@@) stuff off of them. All in all, I have used it for gluing up cork grips, but have chosen other materials with less side effects and similar gluing capability. May I be so bold as to suggest that you make a similar choice.

Doug Weber
Weber Rod Works



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2005 04:46PM by Doug Weber.

I use Titebond II to glue up grips and Rod Bond to install on blank

Mike

titebond III for cork ring to cork ring, Rod Bond for attaching the assembled cork handle to the blank.

eric
fresno, ca.

You are getting good advice from the early responders to your question. Gorilla Glue and the similar Elmer's Ultimate Glue create very good bonds but are not as user friendly as Titebond III or Rod Bond for glueing grips.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

I prefer Titebond III (it is waterproof-Titebond II is not ) for glueing cork. Epoxy for glueing cork to blank. Groilla glue for broken rods. I like the swelling of the Gorilla glue inside the broken rod section. It does swell thru the cracks and you need to keep wiping the excess off. I insert some type of reinforceing inside the broken the broken section. I feel like the Gorilla glue fills any voids inside the rod.

Ed Smith

Greg,

I have health problems with skin contact of all epoxies, and needed to research an alternative <> Or quit building rods.

Tom K. suggested that I try urethane adhesives, and he suggested Titebond III.

I was very leary as old habits die hard <> But in the long haul have found Titebond III to be the perfect alternative to epoxies for cork grip assembly.

Faster, cleaner, better bonding, better fill etc etc...In fact I have found it to be superior in all regards for my shop, and have been using it exclusively now for nearly a year on all of my big sticks.

... With never a field problem in very tuff , real world fishing enviornments.

I do know several other pro builders that use the same, and have been long before I started.

As Tom mentioned <> Care must be taken to follow Mfgr. instructions.

I consulted directly with the Mfgr. techs about the limitations/correct applications of this product quite extensively.

For your own piece of mind <> I suggest that anyone interested in using expanded urethane adhesives for their cork grips do the same research, as there is a correct way to use this product.

just a titebond note... if you can't find titebond III (some have found it difficult although the other titebonds were available) you can use titebond II. III is water proof, II is water resistant.

eric
fresno, ca.

TiteBond II works just fine for gluing cork rings. When my supply runs out, I'll switch to TiteBond III. Tried Gorilla Glue but found it problamatic due to messiness, expansion, details required, cleanup, etc. Stan

Hello Bob,

I just read your e-mail, and thanks for all your info.I just glueed 22 cork rings tonight on my medium 11ft. steelhead rod, with a two part epoxie Tomorrow I will mount the triger realseat and the five corks above that. I have used this product before and have had great success with the bonding, but whow what a mess. The guys up hear in the tackle shops making rods recommend white carpenters gluee for mounting the individual cork rings to the blank. I am leary of useing that product. They make a fair number of rods and swear buy it, but I am looking for somehting with a bit more insureance.
It sound like to me that you are using the Tilebound III , glueing and mountig the rings right to the blanks of your rods. Am I correct? Thats what im looking for a one part product no fuss no muss and eazy on the hands.

Bob, I look orward to your reply.
Cheers Greg