I'm wondering what those that use titanium guides use to prep the guide feet. A Dremel tool with the pink wheel is kind of awkward to use, especially on the small guides, and it leaves rough marks on the feet. It was suggested by a person at a tool shop to use the green colored Dremel wheel and to use water but that still won't be any less awkward. In general, what type of grinder do you use to prep any kind of guide feet and what grit stone works the best. I would spend a few extra bucks if I could get something that would work for everything. Thanks for any help.

I use a diamond disc with my Dremel which is mounted horizontally in a drill press attachment, allows hands free grinding of guides. Amazon has the drill press for $29.99 [www.amazon.com] click on the picture and you will see all the positions the tool can be mounted.

Bob,
I use a Dremel all the time for prepping the feet and cutting blanks (diamond wheel). I wasn't even aware they had such a tool and for the price, sounds like a good investment. I just ordered one, THANKS for the tip. Randy.

Lynn, here is my procedure for using a Dremel tool to prep guide feet (especially small single-foot fly guides). Sorry if this is long-winded.

With my left hand (I'm right handed), I hold a pair of precision flat nose pliers using my thumb and all the fingers except the index finger. The pliers are used to grip the guide foot near the ring. With my left index finger, I push against the guide ring to hold it steady (my index finger is pointing to my right) . The guide foot is horizontal and facing towards me.

I hold the Dremel tool in my right hand like you would hold a fishing rod (i.e., *not* like you would hold a pen while writing), and the bit is facing away from me. The bit I use is a bullet shaped aluminum oxide grinding stone, Dremel #952. Holding the guide steady with my left hand, I aim the Dremel tool facing the ring, i.e., parallel to the guide foot. I then run the bit over the guide foot sideways (left and right) a few times, making sure the foot is ground evenly on both sides.

That's just my personal routine. The cylinder shaped aluminum oxide grinding stones work just as well. The key point is to hold the Dremel so that it's parallel to the guide foot and the bit is pointing towards the ring. That way it's easy to get a symmetric guide foot.

I use this routine on small titanium single-foot fly guides and the results are quite satisfactory. I don't feel the need to run a file over the top of the guide foot for fine finishing.

I do make sure to run the bottom of the guide foot over a rat tail file for deburring. I also make sure to wear safety eyewear, a dust mask and hearing protection.

Other folks prefer to have the tool stationary (not necessarily a Dremel tool; could be a belt sander or a grinding wheel mounted on a drill press), and to move the guide only.

One advantage of the method I described is that it's easy and fast to get a nice symmetric taper. It helps that you can see the guide foot as you are prepping it. If it seems complicated, it's my fault in describing it; once you've become practiced, it takes just a few seconds per guide.

Hope that helps.
Eric



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2005 10:18AM by Eric Lee.

I also use a Dremel with flexible shaft for prepping guide feet & use the Dremel diamond wheel. The shaft handle is secured in a vise at an appropriate work angle to the wheel. That frees both hands, one hand to hold the small nylon bolt with guide in it & the other hand to steady & help direct the guide-holding hand for a little more fine control. The "side" of the diamond wheel is used. The Dremel is variable speed and is run somewhere between half-speed and 3/4ths speed.Lots of lighing is directed towards the wheel. Works for me.

The flexible shaft has a lot of possible uses. I recently used it to cut a perfectly good one piece rod into two sections, as shown in Mr. O'Quinn's article on Making Ferrules (RMM Vol 4, Issue #4). The Dremel tool is a versatile tool
Stan