I'm trying to do a static placement on a 7' UL amtak IM6 blank. I've tried several different combinations and it looks like the only way I can keep the line off the blank is to go with 10 or 11 guides. Can this be right? I'm going with single foot ultralight from the tip then switching to double foot near the bottom. The flex on this blank is more than I have experienced in the past. I'm going to have to either use tall guides near the bottom and/or 11 guides total. Test casting is sweet except the line touches in front of the reel and between the butt and number 2 guide when I flex the entire rod. The front and mid-sections look good but I had to put a lot of eyes.

Hello Leon
I suggest using a spiral wrap on all level wind rods. They will cast just as well and are more stable in all fishing conditions.
Look in the library of this forum, Tom Kirkman's book or Dale Clemen's book. It is not very complicated but to read and understand it will do you much future good.
The butt guide needs to be close enough to keep the line off the blank under fully loaded fishing condition. Tip at 90 degrees to the butt section.
Do not increase the eyelet size to get the added height instead go to a higher frame guide type.

You will be able to do this rod with 7 to 9 guides depending on how much it bends during casting and the static load test.
The butt eyelet size is determined during test casting and should be no larger than needed to adequately choke the line and get it going in the direction desired. Excessive choking will reduce casting distance.

Hope this helps
Regards Joe Kassuba
His Rod Shop

I wouldn't be afraid to use a tall stripper, a spiral wrap will reposition the guides and you have no concerns with the line touching the blank so you just need to follow the blank's curve. Might be able to pull the tip guides back a little as they are straight to the load already. I have a max of 4 1/2" from the tip if the tip size is 4.5 or smaller on all blanks. There are some more mag butted ultralights out there that also helps here if you build another one.

Leon,
I've been building UL casting rods 4'6" thru 7" and only set guides on spiral/bumper wraps. They all cast great, fight fish great !!! I only build convential type rods this way, salt or fresh.


Dave von Doehren
PRRODS......If man built it , man can fix it.and if man built it man can break it !

OK. But I can't take my current static placement and flip them over because I have too many guides. How about I place my butt and choke guides conventionally then flip the choke over 180 degrees and place my guides like I was building a spinning rod. Will the give me the same thing? Are there any particulars as to placing the bumper guide? Do I just center it in between the two guides or do I need to align it in some way?

There is no "choke" guide per se. Set up the guides as you normally would and then flip all but the first one 180 degrees. Place a small "bumper" guide halfway between the butt guide and the first 180 guide at 90 degrees (doesn't make any diff which side, although most place it on the side of the handle to sort of protect it). The only purpose of the "bumper" guide is to keep the line off the blank. I usually use about a size 8 fly type guide.

I wouldn't use any double foot guides on an U/L rod. I use all SF guides on Musky/Pike rods with no problem and use #6 or 8 fly types on all but the butt and first 180 guide.
A good choice of guides, IMO, would be Fuji Alconite BYAG 12 with a BYAG 8 for the first 180 guide followed by BLAG 6's all the way to the tip. Use a BLAG 6 or 8 for the bumper. As usual, use static deflection to tweak the size, number of guides.

That should be a sweet rod!!

Mike