hello guys
did a search and got one question answered but not the other!
from what i read one person says they use true oil
how dark is the true oil goning to darken the cork?
what other finishes can i use and how dark will it turn the cork?
i want to keep it fairly light

david williams

I use U40 cork seal. It makes it just a little darker, and lets you clean up your grips very easily. It also changes the feel of the cork somewhat, I think.

On regular cork, True Oil will slightly darken it. On Burls, I think that it really brings out the grain and is beautiful. A lot of the appearance/feel of the grip can be controlled by your application/number of coats/buffing, etc.

It's not expensive, pick up a bottle and try it on a piece of cork. Personally, I find it very attractive and really protects and keeps the grips easy to clean.

Mike

okay thanks for the info. if it just darkens a little i will go with the true oil
thanks again

david williams

try the true oil on a scrap or spare piece of cork if you have it. When I tried it, it darkened my cork grip more than I wanted it to. I stick with U40 or or Thompsons Water Seal (believe it or not) which keeps the grip lighter. My 2c.

ted

I use tru oil and it only darkens regular cork a little, like Mike said burl is a different story. Last night I did a cork grip in minwax polyshades, it was a pecan color and darkened the grip to match the brown blank and chestnut wraps, put 2 light coats of tru oil over that...turned out quite nice.

I've used both; both about the same color. U 40 dries MUCH faster, so I use it predominantly. Both work OK on regular cork. On burl, I've had darkening problems with the Tru Oil.

Putter
Williston, ND

Although not for everyone, but on a couple Musky rods and spinning rods I tried Flexcoat epoxy finish. I thought it might be slippery, but when wet the grip actually grabs better. Unusual looking ,but I also added some feather inlays, some thread work , and even an inlaid metal musky pin. It does add weight but the balance seemed fine. It looks like Jessy Buky's foregrips. I don't know how he does his but this looks similiar.

Hey Ron,

How about posting a pic? Love to see that one!

Mike

Have been using Tru-oil exclusivly as a sealer, I show my customers cork with no sealer, one with U-40 and samples with sinlge and multiple coats of Tru-oil (# of coats determines finish, flat, satin, gloss). All have been choosing a Tru-oil finish. Only the first coat darkens the cork slightly but makes the grain really pop out.

All,

Sorry to jump in here, but what about staining cork prior to finishing it? Blue, green, whatever??? Anyone tried this, and how did things come out?

Bilgee

Bil

I have been wondering the same thing myself. was thinking about multi-colored cork or balsa grips on some rods. I have the balsa staining figured out but the cork escapes me.

Derek


Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work

Here is a picture posted on the old photo board of some grips coated with Minwax stain.



[www.fishingphotos.net]

Bob,

How did the Minwax colors hold up under use? Transfer? Fading? etc.?

Bilgee

Bilge

After the stain has dried I put on a coat of spar urethane and buff it lightly wit fine steel wool when it is dry. Have had no problem with fading. Below is a link to a picture of 2 rod with stained grips. reel seats and mini butts are redwood. Both have been fished a lot and still look like new.

Bob


[www.fishingphotos.net]

You want to put a final coat of poly or Tru-oil over the stain. I have a reel seat w/o the top coat and it is showing some rub wear. I am also trying some experiments with bleaching agents and white stains. Early results are good.

Finish can be thinned and even tinted. Plain finish will turn the cork a golden glow.

My preference is to use 12-15 coats of Tru-Oil on cork & wood, sanding with very fine steel wool between coats. It does take a lot longer, but once completed you can be proud of it. Don't forget to use a tack cloth between sandings.

Stan

If I want a glass like finish, I put two coats of thin finish on on a fast turner. Wet sand then a final thin coat. Comes out like glass.
Most of the time I put a thin wet coat on, then take most of it off just to seal it from weather. Gives the cork a little grip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2005 07:40AM by bill boettcher.