I am putting together a Cork handle. I fit each piece to the rod by filing each hole individually and then putting a small mark on the outside of the cork, so as to assemble them in the same order.

I tapered the mandrel with masking tape to simulate the rod taper and match that of the inside diameter if the cork. I then coated the masking tape with a thin plastic bag I spiraled up the blank (I guess wax is used also, but I had none). I have shaped the handle and did a dry fit on the rod and all is good.

Is there a reason I don’t want to do this? The books I have read say to assemble on the rod and use the rod as the “mandrel” when shaping. Or, to assemble the pieces on a mandrel and taper ream it. I honestly thought I was doing it how the book said until after I started. I looked to see what grit I should sandpaper I should start/finish with for shaping. I did a quick search and did not find anything pertaining to this method of assembly.

This is the first handle I have built. The last one I bought and taper reamed and I hated the taper reaming. I think making my own, the way I did it, was easier. Not much more time spent on it either. Being as it’s my first one I don’t know if it was dumb luck or not, but it went well.


Joe <*}(({{>>{

Joe,
Their is no "right" way. This is a widely discussed subject (do a searc on reaming ) and I THINK that there are probably more people that do it off the rod than on. IMO, there's just to much of a risk in doing it on the rod (for me). Your method sounds good. I do think that using a candle to rub wax on the mandrel is a lot easier/faster than the plastic bag.

Reaming can be done pretty quick by chucking a reamer or rat tail file (with the tang cut off) into a drill plaved in a vise and power reaming (run the drill in reverse to prevent binding). I drill my rings using a Flex coat arbor bit out to the closest to the size I need, glue them all up on a mandrel, turn them to the size/shape desired the a quick ream to fit and it's ready to install!

Mike

I don't have to ream anything. I did that before I put them on the madrel. I dry fit it last night and it fits well. Being my first one I thought maybe dumb luck got to where I was.

I am pretty pumped about the whle thing. I thougth making the handle might have involved a little more labor.

Joe <*}(({{>>{

Actually you did ream the cork, you just did individual rings rather than the entire grip. I do it all with a 1/4" mandrel, then drill it out with a Flex Coat arbor bit and ream the last bit. From the time I start at the lathe until it fits the rod is about 20-25 minutes. That works for me. Some people do it all on the rod. I've never tried it and probably never will. If this works for you, go ahead and do it. It doesn't matter how you get it done, just so the result works. Just be careful that the cork doesn't get stuck to the masking tape or you'll really have a lot of extra work on your hands.

The next time I am going to use wax I think.

I was really happy the way it worked. I used scrap wood for the jig and spent $5 at the hardware for the metal rods and hardware. The rest was no special tools at all. Just a drill and sandpaper.

It was longer than 20 - 25 minutes. I was really taking my time and using a caliper to measure a handle I already hand on a similar sized rod. It took at least 20 -25 minutes for me shaping it and get it polished up nice. The time I spent before that was 30 - 45 minutes and that will go quicker.

I think just reaming the pre-made handle I put on my first rod took 3 hours for me to get reamed by hand. It was tedious. It fit nicely and I did not get the end enlarged at all.

I am just happy as I can be, because I was thinking it would be more work than it was.

Joe <*}(({{>>{

It takes me about 3 minutes to ream a 7" cork grip after using an arbor bit. Shouldn't take that long to do with arbor bits to help, Joe. They're really a nice addition to my rod shop (thanks again, Myles!!).

Putter
Williston, ND

I use a small drill press to drill out the hole on the rings to the size mandrel I am going to use. The mandrel will be smaller than the blank so I can do the final taper reaming later. Most of the rods I build are around 3/8" to 1/2" at the butt. I think wax is really the way to go to keep the rings from sticking to the mandrel.
I start turning the handle by using 60-80 grit sandpaper to get the rough shape. Then I use 120 grit or 150 grit to get to the final. After that, I use 220 then 330. Lastly, I use wet/dry 600 grit sandpaper. Since I do a lot of inlay and burl cork with regular cork handles, I then use a drier softener sheet to get is as smooth as by grandsons bottom. It really gets them slick and makes the grain stand out. I like it a little bit better than using Cork Seal. You have to really put some pressure on it and get the stuff in the drier sheet to liquify to make it work good. Try it sometime. You can always remove it if you dont like it with some 600 grit paper.
Using a reamer that is long (3ft or more) with a handle on it can really save some time. You can make your own from an old rod by cutting off the rod above the handle and gluing on the reaming tape or grit. Do a search, there should be lots of data on making your own reamer.
But like Mike said, there is no wrong way to do it as long as you get what you want. Do you the way you feel comfortable doing.

Dave

Cork Sealer?

Basically I used the same size sandpaper with the exception of the 600.

I have and old blank I could turn into a reamer. Still has the handle on it so I guess thats a bonus. I have read some of the articles and posts about homemade reamers. I may give it a try.

Thanks for all the input.

Joe <*}(({{>>{