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cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Justin Sharpe
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: September 12, 2005 03:41PM
I did a search on this and I don't think my problem is as drastic as some of the others. I am thinking about not fixing this problem; but here is the issue. I am just finishing a grip made from burl cork (this is the first time I've made a grip); while pulling the cork off the mandrel I noticed a crack in one of the rings. The crack/separation extends 1/3 the OD of the ring, along one of the natural lines within the burl, and it is in the third ring form the butt on a rather beefy full wells grip. Is there any issue that might crop up if I just leave it alone? I couldn't really think of anything unless water working it's way into the grip might present a future problem. While pondering this I started to consider the structural reasons for glueing the rings together. If sufficient epoxy is used to glue the finished grip to the blank does the glue between the rings really provide any structural integrity? Clearly the cork would flex more with the rings not being tightly glued together and small gaps might form while the blank flexes, but it seems this might have little impact on the durability of the grip. Any thoughts on the topic are appreciated. Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Joshua Markvan
(---.pitt.east.verizon.net)
Date: September 12, 2005 06:16PM
I've had the same thing happen.
What I did is spread the crack open wide and add a drop of CA+, RODBOND, or any fully waterproof glue. The crack could widen as the rod flexes but there is no chance of water infiltration if you used the right stuff to glue up the rings. It's just that when the cork rings were pressed the bonding agent didnt adhere in that area so that ring has a crack. If you didnt glue up your rings and only glued them to the blank too much surface area would contact your hand and eventually the rings would sluff apart and probably sluff away from the blank. Check all the other rings and make sure they are intact. You should get in the habit of checking your rings before you glue them up though. Believe me I forget all the time. Good luck. Email me with any questions. Josh Markvan www.markvanheirloom.com Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Duane Richards
(---.rn.hr.cox.net)
Date: September 12, 2005 07:29PM
Josh,
What would you concider the best "bonding agent " when working with cork and burl Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Justin Sharpe
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: September 12, 2005 08:03PM
Josh,
Thanks for the feedback. I checked the other rings and of course there's one other ring with a crack in it. I glued the grip with titebond III, I think I'll just smear a bit in the two cracks, clamp it, and call it good. Thanks again! Justin Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Tom Doyle
(---.ipt.aol.com)
Date: September 12, 2005 08:52PM
Happened to me once with regular cork, a ring split and separated as I was taking the handle off the mandrel. Kept it on the mandrel, patched it with Titebond II (didn't have T III), re-clamped, etc. Worked fine and I have no worries about the ntegrity of the handle. Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.nyc.untd.com)
Date: September 13, 2005 01:30PM
I find that a threaded rod works well only because I can loosen one end nut or wing nut, and then " push " the handle off with the other, instead of grabbing it and pull and twist it. Re: cracked separated burl cork
Posted by:
Joshua Markvan
(---.pitt.east.verizon.net)
Date: September 13, 2005 05:16PM
Duane
I glue all burl cork, natural cork, and wood (stabilized and natural) together with polyurethane glue like Titebond 3. I bond grips and reel seat stuff to the blank with Rodbond. Josh Markvan www.markvanheirloom.com Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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