I have decided to give float fishing a go at least here at home on the Esopus. I read all I can find on the net and have seen it done a few times. I think I will want a 13' rod. If any of you have any suggestions on a blank, components and centerpin reel that wont break the bank I would love to hear them. I'm hoping someone out there has some experince and can offer help. Dealers you can chime in too if you have a blank that seems to sell well.

Hi Bob
In Canada we use anything from 11 to15ft most common is 13ft 2-6 /4-8 line Loomis 1562 Rainshadow 1562. High Frame Guides.Cork 6in butt 12in fore Floatreel Loomis or Islander in Canada $ 250-300 More info email for phone# John ( JC TACKLE)

That 13' Rainshadow Blank won't break the bank for $79.00 at mudhole. I'm in the low end market for one also.

Being a float fisher myself and having built a few I agree with everyone about the rainshadow blank. when wrapped there is no visible difference between that and a Loomis IMX (Looks wise). There are a couple of other blanks like Sage, St. Croix SCII and III, and Coleman blanks (same as Raven) to name a few.

Trying to find a "cheap centerpin" is almost impossible. I feel you get what you pay for. My suggestion is to spend the money and buy quality reel. With proper maintenance it should last a lifetime.

Bob,
We have a nice supply now of those Rainshadow 1342 and 1562 blanks in stock and they are quite popular. I would also agree with Randy that the St. Croix Steelhead blanks are a nice choice.
Also, you might look into building rods on these type of blanks with the concept guides system and in comparison to the heavier high Y frame guides. This is a good working alternative that works quite well if arranged properly. Light line is the order of the day for float fishing and there also are some good alternatives for reels other than the most expensive center pin reels. Many will use spinning reels for steelhead rods also to serve a very similar purpose to float fishing, as well as a variety of floats developing for specific water conditions and technique.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel

The only addition I would have, is be cautious about reel position. It is a little difficult casting with a float reel at first, so many new float fishermen opt for sliding bands instead of a fixed reel seat. The drag, etc is controlled by feathering the rim of the reel with your finger, this is also one way to start the reel spinning when you cast. I recommend playing around with reel position before you affix your reel seat. I prefer mine so the butt of the rod sits at my elbow and the front of the reel is below my baby finger ( aprox 12" butt section, and 5" to 6" fore grip.

Steve

P.S. High frame guides are the way to go....

Many will continue to build float or steelhead rods with the M style high frame guides, and they work perfectly okay under most conditions. The idea of using even Y type or V type frame single foot guides in conjunction with lower, smaller, and lighter weight single foot fly guides out to the tip (concept system). These lower to the blank guides have the added feature of reducting torque on the blank and reducing air resistance when moving the rod.
It does make a difference. The system is well described in past issues of RodMaker magazine, as well as by distinguished rodbuilder proving that the concept works quite well even on the longer reach float type blanks. It may take some tweaking with an extra small guide or two than you may at first determine, and this is easily dictated by checking the final stress distribution.

Rich
Solyrich Custom Rods
Richard's Rod & Reel

Hello Rich would you or any one that know what issue covers the float Rods???? # issue, As I am thinking of building one of these. Thanks!! Jay