Did the search and still have questions on permagloss. Does it matter whether you put it on lightly or float it on. Will the way it drys make a difference ? I like the idea of soaking the threads with gloss I cant think of anything that is "lighter" and would give you the penetration around the shoulder of the guide foot than perm.Does CP stop the penetration? First coat always looks beautiful second looks bumpy even after 24 hrs. Have plenty of humidity.Going to put flex coat over the perm. always use CP. Would appreciate all opinions.

Wet them. You want it to penitrate the threads well. Take any off the bottom if it starts to drip off
I always give it several hours to dry. Some put another coat on maybe an hour, I think that is too soon

You can also get many options on this stuff with a search of this board

You do not want to apply Permagloss thickly - it's important that the solvent can evaporate. Very thick or heavy coats can result in the polymer curing before the solvent within has fully escaped. Heavy applications also can lead to bubbles.

If you use color preserver, the color preserver will penetrate to the blank. There would be no further reason nor need for the Permagloss or epoxy to do so.

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I never use CP so to make sure it goes into the tunnels I soak it. Then the thread will suck it up

Tom ,not to be argumentative but from what I have seen ,not tested ,permagloss seems to be a lot stronger for holding power than CP ????

Probably, but the thread is what holds the guides. The coating just protects the thread. The only additional use for the coating is to fill the thread tunnel and provide a small "shoulder" that helps keeps the guide from shifting under lateral loads. Color preserver will do this as effectively as Permagloss or epoxy.

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I use permagloss on almost all my rods. My first coat is always a flood coat. I put it on heavy enough that it would drip off if I didn't rotate the rod quickly. I keep the rod rotating as I coat each guide. I let the first coat dry for 24 hours. Each additional coat is light. If the later coats are heavy the permagloss tends to build up at the edges of the wrap. The pemagloss has so much solvent that it will not fill the tunnel on larger guides., so after the permaglos has set up I add a drop of a very thin epoxy, called clear coat that is made by System Three and force it into the tunnel with a very fine wire from a lamp cord.

Bill. Have you tried Klass Kote epoxy paint? Penetrates like crazy and dries rock hard. And does NOT smell like the permagloss. With care, you can do the wrap with 2 coats.

I thin out my epoxy ---same thing Check there site. They even say it is epoxy, they thin it.

Klass Kote epoxy paint was designed to be sprayed from an air gun. Now that is thin! If you leave it in the cup for an hour (as the maker recommends) it thickens up enough for a second, final coat. Next to varnish, as minimalist as it gets.