Someone I know doesn't like the glossy finish on his rod blank. He wanted to dull the finish of his rod to a matt type of finish. Any suggestions on how to do this without compromising the rod?

You will need to strip the glossy blank finish off. This is the only way I have done it. I have refurbished many rods for people who requested the same thing. After I strip it I recoat it with a very thin finish to give the blank some added protection.

David Banaka

Whatever your friend tries, tell him to test the effects of whatever he does by trying it first down near the butt end of the rod, where the handle components will cover the test section. Any part of the handle section that will have adhesive applied to it will need to have a scuffing anyway, so that will kill two birds with one stone.

Also, recommend he come here to RBO and read the two LIBRARY Articles, "Surface Preparation" and "Refinishing Rod Blanks", both by Ralph O'Quinn.

Basically, the only two choices are physical abrasion, or chemical marring from a strong solvent. Since I can't see the rod, and I have no idea how "matte" he wants it, that is the end of my advice. ...

IMO, my advice is to leave well enough alone, because it is impossible to tell the depth of the gloss finish, or the type of fibers on this rod, without seeing and touching it. If it is a graphite rod, it is more critical to do it correctly than if it is a fiberglass material. ROQ's articles discuss why in detail. Read them.

-Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL-USA+++

I think, if you spray the rod with matte urethane finnish that would
do the trick. IMO

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I second Ray A......Skuff blank very lightly with say 600 grit and than spray with a matte urethane or polyurethane. Should work.

I just went the opposite by taking a matte dark grey blank and adding a clear gloss coat with brilliant gold sparkle. Pretty interesting result.

All things are possible.

Derek

Cliff Hall wrote: "Basically, the only TWO choices are physical abrasion, or chemical marring from a strong solvent. ..." .... Whoops! I must stand corrected.

Ray Adams was thinking more than I was, when he suggested a THIRD OPTION: If you spray the rod with matte urethane finish that would do the trick. IMO." A light scuffing should help the urethane bond to the rod blank. If you don't use a spray-on urethane, but a liquid / brush-on type, then a quick pull thru a soaked sponge-brush or Putter's funnel trick to apply the urethane should give nice results.

Read ROQ's articles and understand this "water break free" surface thing.

Also, refer to last month's refresher article on this very subject of surface preparation in RMM-8(3), pp 30-31. That's shorthand for RodMaker Magazine Volume 8, Issue #3, pages 30-31.

If your buddy has a computer, tell him that RBO (www.rodbuilding.org) is THE place to learn custom rod-building. There is literally more information available here every day than most people could keep up with. The LIBRARY articles, and the FAQs article are outstanding. The SEARCH function for the ARCHIVED POSTS is the best I've seen for such a text-finder, and I've done a lot of searches on various medical literature databases. And what Photo Gallery can compare to RBO PhotoPost? -None-.

Add in: the RMM back issues and a subscription to the best rod-building magazine in the world; and some of the most relevant Posts; and an eager, helpful, knowledgable and reliable pool of Repliers; and anybody who is serious about learning more about rod-building would be missing the boat if they choose not to plug into RBO.

A word to the wise is sufficient, ... -Cliff Hall+++

I've done this a few times using steel wool - the finest you can find - just scuff lightly until you get a satin look - this wont remove the finish just the surface. Once the rod is finished you can rub it with a very thin layer of wax to get a little more depth. But as recommended - always try on the bottom section first.

"I've done this a few times using steel wool"

Or Scotchbrite- both are quick and effective at dulling the finish without removing any of the finish. The finner the better, #000 or equivilant.