Anyone here use Perma Gloss very often? I used it for the first time today and it was a total disaster... The first coat was ok, but the second coat started to show signs of bumpiness and an uneven coat... The third was even more so. I didn't want to put another, but figured that I'd better just to try to alleviate some of the damage I inflicted on the rod... I went back to the advice I received on this board and used a foam brush to make smooth, long strokes onto the rod..... In doing so, I messed it up as is formed air bubbles and hardened into clumps... Is there any way that I can remove the permagloss and try again, and if so what would be the best way to lay down the coats? Thanks in advance!.....Andrew Mason

Hi Andrew,
Try the FAQ and Library of this board while you waite for someone to chime in.
I do not have any experiance with permagloss so can't help you myself.

Good Luck,

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Andrew;
Run a search for Permagloss in the Forum. I know Tom K. has described how he passes a blank through a hole in a foam brush which is wet with Permagloss. One pass is all it takes. The method is fast and provides a smooth coating.
Dave

Andrew;
Run a search for Permagloss in the Forum. I know Tom K. has described how he passes a blank through a hole in a foam brush which is wet with Permagloss. One pass is all it takes. The method is fast and provides a smooth coating.
Dave

Andrew Mason Wrote:

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I went back to the advice I received on this board and used a foam brush to make smooth, long strokes onto the rod.....

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I hope you didn't receive that advice from this board, and I think you may want to go back and read over it again.

What are you finishing - the blank or the guide wraps? If coating a blank, you can only make one or perhaps two passes. You can't "brush" up and down the blank or you will certainly have a mess. If coating wraps, use a brush and rotate the rod under the loaded brush. Make a full revolution and then move on.

Hi Andrew,

The results you obtained were more than likely not allowing enough "cure" time in between coats of the permagloss. The bubbles are still exiting during the curing process of the first coat with the second coat over the top of it. Not to worry though, just remove it with your "scotch brite" pad and allow @ 24 hrs between coats on you re-application with the foam brush. Two coats will probably be more than sufficient.

Skip

Normally, an hour is all you need to let the Permagloss set up between coats. Permagloss cures by exposure to moisture. Unless you're in a very dry climate, an hour should be enough between coats. If you are in a very dry climate, put a tea-kettle on the stove and boil some water - that usually speeds the drying time substantially.

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yup, got that from this board and reread; here it is:

"Using a Scotchbrite pad, took the surface of the blank to a water break free status.
Wipe off the blank with a dry paper towel.
"Dust" the blank with the spray paint in sweeping strokes so that you don't get runs or heavy spots (spray can is 12" or so from the blank and it helps to have a helper).
Wait a few minutes and dust it again.
Repeat (it took me a while to get this right).
Let the paint dry for several days..
Make a slit or a hole in a foam brush, soak the foam brush in Perma Gloss, apply the Perma Gloss quickly down the blank (no more than 3 or 4 strokes should do it).
Hang the blank in a dust-free, bug free environment to cure.

Using this method, I turned a scrap piece of standard matte gray graphite blank into a fiery red blank.

The Perma Gloss surface passed my stress test with flying colors (tapping the blank good & hard several times with the backside of my pocket knife blade). "

The only thing is that I followed the Perma Gloss instrucions until I saw that it wasn't working. I guess by then it was too late... But I still got the bubbles in the rod by using the foam brush method. The Gloss was just going on there too thick...