I received many requests to address my new Rod Finish Products on the rodbuilders.org board. I want to clarify what I have developed.

Diamondite Rod Finish is a 2-part adhesive that was developed for a different application in a difference industry. I have been able to reformulate it for use in the rod building industry. I worked with some of the big name rod builders on the West Coast to ensure that I got this product right; Doc Ski, Leon Todd and Roy Hastings to name a few. It is a crystal clear finish that remains that way thru the entire process. It does have a working (pot) life in excess of 1 hour. Once the finish has been applied to your satisfaction, you apply a standard incandescent light bulb to the finish to activate the curing process. I then recommend that you leave the rod turning under the light source to shorten the curing time. I recommend that the temperature of the finish be raised using the light source to approximately 100 – 120 F. The finish will now cure in 1 hour.

The finish is not an epoxy. The mixing ratio of the finish is 2 parts base to 1 part activator. I have packaged the product in a cartridge mixing system for ease of use. I also will have it available in the normal bottle configuration.

The characteristics of the finish are outstanding. During the reformulation process, I was able to add elastomers to the product to give it outstanding flexibility without making it soft. The industry that this product came from is very sensitive to U.V. exposure. I feel my product solves the yellowing issue. I conducted 10 year U.V. laboratory exposure tests run on the product with excellent results.

I was demonstrating the product at ICAST in our booth. My staff and I were mixing and curing product during the show and giving the samples to many of the rod manufactures and distributors in attendance. Everyone was in amazement on not only the speed that the product cured, but by how flexible the product was while maintaining it’s hard shell.

It can be recoated wet or dry. It levels excellent. You can refinish over other products without any major preparation work. It doesn’t walk during application. It has a 3 year shelf life.

I have developed a marbling kit that will be released soon. I am using our base product and adding natural pigments. This will allow you to maintain the high quality finish you expect by not adding non-compatible components to the finish.

I did receive some good feedback from the show to re-label the packaging prior to our first shipment. I have been doing that. It will be going out to the stores very soon.

I am excited by the release of this extraordinary product. The time saving aspect of this product alone was my original goal. Everything else was “gravy”.

I have posted PDF’s of Diamondite Rod Finish and the Nu-Skin Rod Armor Release kits using these links to my website. [www.swiftymfg.com] and [www.swiftymfg.com] . My webmaster is working as quickly as possible to update the site with all of the new information.

If you have any questions, please contact me at tim@swiftymfg.com or you can call the shop at (626) 963-1142

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing

I'm asking these questions here, because I'm sure others will want to know also. You say, "apply a standard incandescent light bulb to the finish to activate the curing process". Is this a heat activation, or a light (photochemical) activation? I suspect the former, and if so, can other heat sources provide this activation, such as a flaming step as commonly done in rodbuilding? Will the finish fail to cure at all if this is not done, or is it just a slow process that you suggest be speeded up? If the latter (slow process), how long will curing take at a room temperature of, say, 70 degrees F? If applying the incandescent bulb (or other heat source) is indeed a critical step, then I'd like to know a bit more about the proper way of doing this (or what would constitute improper ways)? Thanks. Frankly, I guess my main question is: would I need to obtain or construct a lighted/heated drying box to successfully use this product?

Goood Questions!!!!

Bill in WV

Thank you for the questions.

The finish is first “light activated” and then it is “heat accelerated” to achieve the curing time stated. I am currently running tests to determine the curing times at lower temperatures. I did not build a lighted/heated drying box to cure my test rods. I am using a simple aluminum shielded clamp-on light with a 100 watt light bulb. Most of the rods I tested were 8 feet in length. An eight foot rod required 3 clamp on lights. The curing time can best be achieved with the bulbs approximately 18” from the finish. The finish during the curing process does generate some heat without the light present. I used a Custom PowerWrapper for my tests. I just clamped the lights to the cradles that were not being used. I am also testing other heat sources for use during the acceleration process.

When I was doing all of my testing, I felt that the short cure time was an incredible benefit. It would solve the issue with dust and contaminants without building a pressurized and filtered drying box. It would allow for multiple rods to be finished in the same day. Guide repairs could be done while a customer waits.

I am available to answer any questions you may have. The product is being repackaged this week and I should be able to get it into distributions hands very soon. I am also preparing a slide show on how to use the Diamondite product.

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing
[www.swiftymfg.com]
(626) 963-1142

Thanks Tim. I can also see that this fast curing time could be very useful while making butt wraps, applying decals, etc., any operation where a single light bulb adequately covers the working area. So, the next question (this escaped me when reading your first post), when you say "cure in one hour", do you mean the finish can now be freely handled, a second coat can be put on, etc.?

I for one can't wait to try this product....It might actually cure my hate for two part finishes.....If activation with a 100wt bulb is between 100-125 degrees I can't help but wonder what my 4 300wt bulbs would be capable of at a safe distance. They are old movie lights and bright enough that I have to wear sunglasses if I am using them to dry my Createx and Auto Air paintjobs. It could be very interesting as I can watch the paints give off water vapor (water based) and dry before my eyes without excessive heat (thermocouple and a polished aluminum reflector). Held too close these lights can grill a steak....>Trust me.....I've tried it.


Could this be the end of my spar varnish use?


Derek

I got a chance to see this up close and personal at the Fred Hall Show in Long Beach Ca. This year. It really looked super. I didnt see it being applied but talked to time a while and was pretty impressed. Hope it is available soon.

Doc,

The product from the last time you saw it to what I released was improved immensely. When I was able to eliminate the U.V. activator, it solved many of the issues I wasn’t happy with. This is a simple product that is easy to use.

It is important to remember this is not epoxy. You can not handle it like epoxy.

First, do not change the 2:1 ratio of base to activator to speed up the cure time. If you do, the product crystallizes and cracks when flexed. The 2:1 ratio isn't as critical as other products. You need to be accurate, but not exact.

The second is that it does not like flames. You will have to get a heat gun to level the product prior to activating. Flames are too hot and too inconsistent. The produce can flash and when it does the surface will look like a lava field. It is not pretty.

I was able to maintain the warm honey consistency that was requested.

Here are the instructions that will come with the product for your review.

[www.swiftymfg.com]

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing
(626) 963-1142

Sounds almost too good to be true:) How does it release the ever present bubbles?

The Heat Gun he mentioned, probably the heat from the light bulbs as well.

I want to thank you for your positive response to my new product. I still have a few personal e-mails to reply to with specific questions. The product should be on the shelves next week. I will let all of you know where it is available.

Sincerely,

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing

Scott,

The industry where the base for this product was developed can not allow any impurities in the finish. When the product goes thru the curing process, I have watched the bubbles "percolate" to the surface and burst. I was amazed. I ran extensive tests where I foamed the product to see how it responded. The bubbles disappeared.

I also want to mention that the product likes to be mixed together. It only takes a few seconds for the two components to mix based on the quantity you are mixing. As the chef on Cable says, "They get HAPPY together".

Tim Campbell

Tim,
Is this product currently available in Canada?
Do you know of any dealer in Canada or the North West New York area?

Thanks,

E. Taylor

I do not currently have any distribution in Canada. Due to Rodbuilding.org restrictions, I am not able to say who I would recommend you to purchase product from. Please send me an e-mail and I will get you to a store.

If their are any Rodbuilding.org sponsors that are interested in distributing my product, please contact me @ (626) 963-1142

Tim Campbell
Swiftymfg.com
tim@swiftymfg.com

Iv been useing Flex coat , up untill now that i heard and ready about Diamondite.

I Live in Houston Texas and was wondering if you knew were this produce will be distributed to. What Shops and stores.

and how exspensive will it be??


James