What is the recommended RPM for the motor ? I hve a motor that turns 2 1/2RPM, I don't think this will keep up with sag/run rate of coating. Whats you take on this subject?

thanks dick

I've used a 2 RPM motor for over 15 years now; no problems. I like it for marbling; I can marble while the rod is turning and steady one hand with the other while marbling and putting finish under double foot guides.

Putter
Williston, ND

The RPM is fine for drying. If the finish is sagging you have too much on. If you are not into high speed finishing, 200 rpm, just put it on without it turning - let stay still until level - hand turn - apply more - remove excess by wicking from bottom - let finish level itself - long slow pulls with brush - no back and forth brushing - when done put on your dryer. First coat just to saturate thread - you will see thread pattern - this will keep bubbles from causing problem by air escaping from thread and having too much finish to travel through to escape. If you did not read the instructions on the package of finish you missed out on a lot of good information.

Gon Fishn

I use one motor at 200 rpm to apply the epoxy, then when that is complete, I switch it to my dryer which is 4 rpm. 2.5 rpm should be fine and have to agree if you are getting sagging, then you have too much epoxy on. I use to try and keep up with the sagging while drying to get only one coat on the guides, but have found I get a much better finish with using 2 thin layers and I do not have to watch the rod at all when it is drying because I have on just enough epoxy for each coat. Applying with the 200 rpm motor is so much better in my opinion.

I used to use 30 rpm but switched to 3 rpm some time ago and the quality of my finishes has dramatically increased (sometimes, I do it all manually) For me the key is to NOT put the finish on very heavy (just enough to cover) and let it do what it is supposed to do. I found the less I messed with it, the better the results.
On long butt wraps, inscriptions, etc., I use a playing card cut to the length needed and lightly hold it against the finish while turning. Levels out the finish perfectly.

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/13/2005 11:48AM by Mike Barkley.

Mike Barkley Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> On long butt wraps, inscriptions, etc., I use a
> playing card cut to the length needed and lightly
> hold it against the finish while turning. Levels
> out the finish perfectly.

Thanks for sharing this idea with us Mike! :D I've had some problems with long wraps and have been wondering a solution like yours for a while now. I'll try that next time. Sorry for OT.

For several years I used a 30 rpm drying motor with fair success. For repairs I now use a 4 rpm motor, but as suggested by Tom Kirkman, I now turn all custom rods by hand and get the best looking finish, ever. I occupies you for a couple of hours, but it's worth it.

I think a lot also depends on the finish used
I was using Glass Coat untill it started to get hot outside, with a 30 RPM dryer.
it set toooo fast and did not have enough time to flow out and level.
I now use LS high build, thin coats and it flows great

I place the rod in the dryer only for curing. I apply finish elsewhere and bring the rod with fresh finish to the dryer for rotating until cured. Thin finishes will tend to drip off low rpm dryers until the finish has set up enough. Thicker finishes stay put better on low rpm machines. Finishes also tend to drip off thin rods much easier, higher rpm works better here.

Lou