Is there a motor that can attach to the renzetti that would be appropriate to drive the head stock and chuck, but at slow enough speeds for drying? I'm assuming the 1/10hp or 1/15hp motors that you can get with the system cannot be stepped-slowed-down enough somehow? I'd like be able power wrap and dry on the same system.

There are directions in the Volume 7 - Issue 6 of Rodmaker magazine to add a drying motor to your Renzetti Rod Lathe.

I shoulda figured its been covered in rod maker....thanks for the info....now to get v7-6 ordered and added to my growing stack of books and mags in the basement...time for a book case, and a bigger credit card tooo...i just hate the wait for these mags to come in thru the mail.

On a renzetti or clemens lathe no need to mod anything.

Use a Flexcoat GM-18 (or the slower model) dryer motors and place it either ON the lathe bed, or next to the lathe bed adjacent to the lathe chuck. No need to attach it to anything - its stable enough. Adjust the rollers on the rod supports to level the rod, then apply finish. If you place dryer motor adjacent to lathe head reverse the placement of the roller wheel so that they stick out the back of the rod support vs. the front of the rod support and over the lathe bed.

Lou

The RodMaker article has a very nice set up for your lathe - easy to make and switching back and forth between the drying and wrapping/turning motors involves nothing more than swapping a belt. Nothing to knock over, nothing to adjust. Andy should offer this as standard equipment on his lathes. And, according to what he told me in Charlotte this past February, he may do so very soon.

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Thanks these are all great tips.
I like the idea of just changing belts from one motor to the other. I've ordered v7-6 to see how its done.
I'm thinking/guessing maybe another of the renzetti motor mount brackets (part no. MM3003), to mount the dryer motor on the other side of the stock from the finishing motor, might be needed to complete the project? If I could order the materials/supplies needed in parallel that would be cool,

You won't need that - the article shows how to mount it to the headstock. At most you'll need a short piece of flat aluminum stock, just a few inches long. The whole project shouldn't cost you over $25 including the motor and in the end it will look like a factory part.

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Ok, cool. Thanks.