I started to apply my flexcoat and just as I got past the butt wrap it started to dry. I was sure I mixed it properly. I was like a thick gum. So I mixed a new batch and put it on tin foil and finished the rod with no problems. The thing is though where it started to gum up and dry it was very bumpy. Can I sand it once it dries? With say some 220 grit paper?

You can cerainly sand it down. Use an emory board, Walmart has them with several grits on the same board, and just be careful you don't sand the thread.

Al

You honestly sure you mixed it properly. Even if you did what else did you maybe do to it. I don't agree with the stated open working times that Flex coat put on their leaflets, but you should get at least 10 to 15 minutes from mixing before the mix starts to go a bit thick on you. Did you warm up the mix too hot which will accelarate the setting up time. Or did you spend forever applying the first batch on your butt wrap. You can almost slap it on and forget, the finish is so good at self levelling that within reason you don't have to fuss too much at all.

Regards

Mike O.

Temperature plays a major role in setting time for epoxies. If you kept it in the same cup you mixed it in, the exothermic heat from the reaction of the mix in a small confined area certainly contributed to setting it faster. Remember, for every 20 degrees up or down from about 70F either halves or doubles the set and cure time.

At 70F, Flex Coat can usually be worked for about 15 to 20 minutes before it's too thick to use. How long did you spend finishing that butt wrap?

If you work slowly, and you want to be able to keep your finish thin enough for easy application, you may want to finish your rod in two parts. Mix up a batch for the butt section and then do another for the top half. Or, one for the butt wrap and one for the guides.

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I think I heated to finish too much and that it why it dryed so fast on me. The 2nd batched I heat just a little bit and I had plently of time to apply it. Thanks for your help guys

If epoxy was mixed in a cup and stored on the work bench in a tray of ice cubes would that extend the working time of the mix... Bob.

Question! Why would you heat it?? Don't understand that one. Finishes are formulated to be used as they come out of the bottles. At most, I MIGHT heat the finish a little AFTER application to maybe release some stubborn bubbles. I'm not aware of any possible advantage to heating the finish (This is just my opinion)

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2005 03:18PM by Mike Barkley.

This is exactly what I was referring to in an earlier post - builders are doing all sorts of things to their epoxies that aren't required and which only create problems.

No offense Al, but you shouldn't heat or warm your epoxy unless you've stored it in a very cool place and need to get it back up to room termperature. 70F to 80F is ideal for best working properties and reasonable pot life.

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I prefer to heat my flexcoat to about 85-90 before mixing, I guess it is a no no???

I use one of the lamps at my wrapping table to heat the parts. To me it draws smoother out of the bottle for measuring and mixes much better. I am not too concerned with working time as I just usually apply it and let it do it's work. Always have had great results and find it to be really forgiving.

Also I follow the instructions that are on flex coat's website...... I am not too proud to say it- this guy reads instructions:)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2005 04:08PM by Jason Pritchard.

Warming it to that temp is not necessarily bad - as long as you understand you will reduce the working time available. If you move quickly, as you say you do, then it's not a downside, for you.

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I had some problems with bubbles using flex coat and I tried warming the bottles and hitting it with some heat to release the bubbles it made things worse, by shortening the working time and making it much harder to get the bubbles out. Figuring that I am not doing things that much different that everyone else and still having all these bubbles, I found some bottles that I got from someone else and it was like night and day. No bubbles and didn't have to heat it or anything and went on beautiful. Some where along the line the flex coat musta went bad for some reason. Now......no heat and just slop it on push it where I want it, wick off the excess, pop one or two(not 50 to 60) bubbles and let it turn.

"Question! Why would you heat it?? Don't understand that one. Finishes are formulated to be used as they come out of the bottles. At most, I MIGHT heat the finish a little AFTER application to maybe release some stubborn bubbles. I'm not aware of any possible advantage to heating the finish (This is just my opinion) "


I misunderstood Tom Kirkmans book. I went a little overboard on the heating, haha. Works fine without any heat. Wasnt too bad of a mistake for my frist rod. Its coming out good. All you other new guys out there I suggest you dont heat it!!! Thanks

What you saw in the book, was a very brief (2 seconds) and gentle flaming with a butane light to release stubborn bubbles (if they occur).

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The only time I have ever had expoxy dry that fast on me, was when I inadvertantly mixed up a batch of Flexcoat handle glue. I was flabbergasted when the brush attached itself to the second wrap I was working on.