A friend glued on my reel seat on my first rod I am building. He got glue on the metal threads, AND it seeped out from under the cork and left a rubbery glob on the reel seat. I cleaned it all off, wondering why the glob didn't set up hard like an epoxy. He's a dear older friend and don't want to even tell him. He was only helping me by showing me how to build a rod. As I said before though, I got a phone call and so don't really know how or what he used to glue it. Thing is, I used fingernail polish remover to clean it all up. It looks ok now. But I think I removed the satin/varnish...? what ever was on it...the wood insert that is. How should I now coat it and with what. I am not up on polyurethane, varnish, satin, gloss, semi-gloss. Everything I looked at in a can at Wal-Mart said INTERIOR only. One guy just told me to spray it. Well, not being much of a handyman with finishes and such....should I spray it.....I just try to cover the parts I don't want to get the finish on with masking tape and spray away? Or......is there a fingernail polish, or sumpin I should spread on with a very small brush like painting a house? WHAT shoud I put on it.....and how do I dood it? help wanted

Jim
".......I've always been crazy.....but it kept me from going insane" (Waylon Jennings) ......but this rod building obsession is pushing me closer and closer <grin> and it's just my first rod.....duh

Jim,

First, mask off the metal parts.

Next, get some fine sandpaper, the gray stuff in about 600 grit. CAREFULLY degloss or sand the entire wood area. Take your time. Try to get all the old finish off. You may want to make a small sanding block from a popsicle stick if you have any sharp angles or mortisses in the seat.

Get some Tru Oil from WalMart. They sell it in the sporting goods section. It's a gunstock finish. Apply a coat of this with piece of old T-shirt, rag, or your finger. A light, thin coat. Let it dry. Sand again. Try to remove all the finish. Repeat thisat least three to four times, then add a final coat of the Tru Oil. Seat insert should be smooth and look like it's coated in glass. Very durable finish. Easy to do, just takes a bit of time and care.

Good Luck!

Buddy

rod bond is a "glue" for assembling components, often for reel seat/grips, and doesn't dry as hard as your typical epoxy. its flexibility when dry is a selling point. perhaps this is what he used. why dont you ask him?

eric
fresno, ca.

Jim,

Before I did anything, I would find out exactly what was used to glue the reel seat on. Rod Bond is like a gel and can't "seep". You need to know for sure that it is an adhesive that will hold and not a finish epoxy or something that is going to come loose during use. Once you know this, you can take care of the wood finish. True Oil is very good.

Mike

Wow, cool, quick answers. I just forgot to go off line....came back to computer and decided to check. So cool. I will find out what he used. Iffen I think it will hold.....I will go ahead and finish it wit Buddy's instructions. I do remember way last Nov when he did it....he said now set it down....ie set the rod on the floor and lean the tip up against the wall and let it set overnight. Perhaps this is not the best way to let it rest once one has put on the reel seat?

Thanks

Jim

Jim,
Personally, I would leave it horizontal until it cures. I also use a clamp (I think that most do) to secure the seat very tight against the grips while curing so that it does not "creep" away from the grips, leaving a gap.

Mike

Thanks guys. I hate to ask so many questions of you all. But, that is sorta what this board is about. There just is no sense in asking anyone up here, even in my fly club because none of them know as much as you guys. Although they will act like they do. All the information is printed and kept for reference. Thanks to everybody, Mike, Eric, Buddy, all of you that take time out to help someone else. It is just a plain good thing.

Ever Thankful and if there is ever anything I do for you guys in return, just say the word.

Sincerely,

Jim

Buddy,

you beat me to it!.....I have done so many gun stocks with tru-oil and I don't believe they make ANYTHING better for wood.

DR

Duane and Buddy,
I've used Tru-oil but there is something that is a bit better. Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn. Use it exactly like Tru-oil, but I'm convinced that it is better. Granted it isn't a world of difference, as Tru-oil is great stuff, but if you want the ultimate stock or grip finish, this stuff is bulletproof.

Mick,

You just like it because it's named Laurel!!!!!!!!!:) Where can you buy it!!!

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2005 10:29PM by Mike Barkley.

HAHAHA Mike! Brownells is the only place I know of that carries it.

Mick,

Thus the beauty of the Tru Oil.

I know several finishes that are superior, as far as durability goes. I can get Tru Oil at WalMart. It works. It looks good. It's easy to use. I'm really only concerend with the finish lasting throug the first 5,000 or so fishing days ;)....after that, the wood can be refinished by my great great grandkids.

This is only a fishing rod, how 'good' does it have to be?

Buddy

Can't really argue that point Buddy, seeing as how I have a large can of Tru-Oil next to my Permalyn bought at Walmart when Brownells was out of stock!

Why do I prefer Permalyn? Based on the gunstocks I've done, it is superior as far as dents and scratches. Like so much about rodbuilding, it is what I call splitting hairs. Does the customer have a clue about finishes, whether one guide is 1/8" off on static deflection, if his reel seat is done with masking tape, drywall tape, arbors, etc.. I'll say no across the board. The only way a customer knows what we know is if they are a builder themselves, in which case, they wouldn't be my customer.. they would build their own (although there are a few builders that I have considered commissioning because their talents far exceed my own).

Is there anything wrong with Tru-oil? No there isn't. Time proven finish. Is there anything better? In my opinion, yes there is. That's why I use it whenever possible. I want to know that my grandkids won't be cussing me out for having to refinish their grips... LOL.. I'm kidding of course:)

Mick,

Actually, it would be nice IF the grandkids WERE cussing me. Since I'll be long dead, it would be nice to believe that they were thinking of me in ANY fashion.

I've acquired and used some really great 2 part wood finishes over the years. Durable, last many many lifetimes. Played with powder coat, they do make some that don't need as much heat and will work on wood. Stronger than the wood itself, and, what I really liked was that is was just as flexible. All of these finishes work, and are, by their final properties in many ways 'better' than Tru Oil. Just harder to get and more trouble to use.

I've not played with the Permalyn, yet. I really hate to 'order' stuff, and so what I've used I've come accross in my travels or by scrounging among the back rooms of shops and the undershelves of woodworking and hardware strores.

Is it easy to use?

Thanks,

Buddy

LOL Buddy.

I played with stuff too and even went through the phase of "make it look like a Weatherby with 30 coats of the thickest, shiniest poly you can find". High gloss rifles look good in the cabinet but not in the woods. Eventually got back to function with linseed oil, tung oil, tru-oil, then permalyn. My main rifle is still high gloss though. One of these days I have to get around to refinishing it.

It works nearly identical to Tru-oil. Hard to even tell the difference between the two in working it. I can get a bit heavier coating with it which cuts down on time, though I'm usually never in that big a rush where an extra day or two is an issue. I'm just getting lazier. Another thing I like about it is that it has a bit deeper amber color to it. Gives a look that I really enjoy.

I don't do as much wood finishing as I used to so the small can lasts quite some time, and I'm rarely in a spot where a couple of weeks out of stock bothers me. During the times when it happens though, that's why I have the Tru-oil. As you said, if I need more, I can get it with a 2 minute walk down the road.

If you want I can send you a sample of it to try out.

Mick,

I appreciate that.

I am, however, leaving for three months in Colorado and won't be doing anything but working (and fishing, of course).

I'd like to try it, but I'll order some from Brownells when I get back.

I don't do ANY gunstock finish work anymore. Wood is pretty, but plastic is more efficient. The stocks I have now I can refinish with a can of cheap spray paint (pull the bolt, mask the scope mounts and bolt opening, spray the whole thing). All of my 'pretty' rifles are gone now. Just have a couple of shooters left, all with either plastic or glass stocks.

Did you ever play with Fullerplast? First 2 part wood finish I ever used. Gave you that Weatherby gloss and was stronger than anything I'd ever seen.

Thanks again,

Buddy