when using mesh tape or dry wall tape how can a person make sure the rod bond is actually penatrating all the way through to the blank. Or does the rod bond need to penatrate through. Seems like the rod bond would be to thick or paste like to flow through the holes in the tape.

Can anyone answer my question and concerns about this tape and using rod bond.

Thanks

Doug

Try applying the RodBond as you are winding the tape around the blank. Every couple of turns of tape, add some more epoxy.

Bret

Exactly what Bret said. You are correct, the rod bond will never 'flow' through the tape. Wind on a few turns and spread some Rod Bond around the tape. As you wind the next few turns the epoxy will squeeze itself through the mesh. You will be able to tell when you need to add more epoxy around the tape...wind some more. The object here is to add epoxy as you go not just at the end. I usually dry fit the objects that I'm making bushings for. After I get the proper sized bushing of tape I unwind it until I have a couple turns left on the blank, add the epoxy, and start re-winding the tape back on. It'll work great.

Jay

those are great tips. But will the tape stick to itself when you are on the last wrap. Do you have to wait until the bushing is completely dry before putting on the real seat? or would you just push the real seat on while the tape and glue are still wet? Seems to me that the tape would slide or move with the rod bond applied.

Do not wait until the bushing is dry, assemble the seat right after applying the epoxy and tape. The tape shouldn't slide to any appreciable extent.

I use the mesh dry wall tape that is adhesive backed. The roll is a little under 2 inches wide so I use a utility knife to cut the roll in 3 equal pieces about 1/2" wide and then spiral wrap 1or 2 layers deep on the blank, then apply a coat of Rod Bond, continue spiral wrapping layers with tape and Rod Bond until the proper depth is achieved. One nice thing about Rod Bond is that it doesn't set up real fast which allows one time to make any adjustments that may be required. I also coat the inside of the reel seat with a light coat of Rod Bond. After everything is in the proper place you can clean any excess Rod Bond off the blank or reel seat with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.

I have built a lot of fly rods and used this method and never had a problem (knock on wood) yet.

Bob

PS: One always has a little bit of mixed Rod Bond left over and with it's long pot life it is very good for all kinds of projects around the house or shop.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2005 09:10PM by Bob Crook.

Just like you just read...apply the reel seat immediately after forming your bushings. Your fear of the tape 'slipping' because of the slick Rod Bond is somewhat true. You can push the tape layers apart if the fit is too tight, but it shouldn't be that tight to begin with. If you find your bushings are tight, you need to unwrap a layer or two & try again. You don't want ultra-tight bushings (of any material not just mesh tape) so you'll be able to have epoxy between your seat & bushing.

Jay

I do it using 5 minute epoxy. Same technique.

Keith