Other than Tap Plastics can anyone recommend any other paints/pigments that work well. In particular metallics. Thanks for the info. Tightlines

The Testor's model paint metallics are very good! Just make sure that you let settle and pour off the solvents fiirst. Check craft stores also, they have numerous metallics. You can also usually talk/buy your local hardware/paint store into parting with some of the pigments that they use to mix their paints with, they work great. You will need to bring your own containers though (craft stores usually sell small plastic bottles

Mike

This past week, I've been playing with the tubes of artist's paints and mixing into the epoxy. So far the marble has turned out well with these, also. The "hardware store" pigments are VERY good for color brilliance, though, and I haven't played with these artists paints enough, yet.

In gold and silver metallics, I've been using "Liquid Leaf" brand. Testor's do very well, too, and I have used them quite a bit. Testor's Metal FLAKE Metallics- I've tried two of these; the metallic part is OK, but the color is very transparent and I won't use them anymore.

Putter
Williston, ND

HI
Arts & Craft stores have fine (size) dry powder, metalics, Pearls, multi color pearls, also automotive paint supply that mix paint, or body shops that have paint mixing set-up have the dry metalics and pearls.
Where I work we do all our own mixing, alot of custom paint work.

Dave von Doehren
PRRODS......If man built it , man can fix it.and if man built it man can break it !

I've ordered a lot of colors of the dry pigments and will be trying them, also. I do have some and have played with them, but wanted a whole color scheme of them. There are so many things that seem to work very well. Not much limit here; just our imaginations.

One of the biggest things that I've discovered with the many different pigments that I've tried; most always one of the colors used in marbling is white. It still amazes me how differently the whites work in marble. Hardware store, Testor's, artists, and others. When the different whites are used with the base colors of different pigments, the resulting blend or contrast and the differing amount that the white blends or contrasts just runs the scale from one end to the other. The effects are nearly limitless; none are "nicer" or prettier, just very different and ALWAYS repeatable. Lots more to learn, that's for sure...

Putter
Williston, ND

Hi- I'm just a newbie at this but have been experimenting with Liquitex brand acrylic artist paints I picked up at an A.C.Moore craft store. Its available in an extraordinary number of colors. I've used it in a number of experiments thus far and in each case its mixed/blended well with the epoxy finish and the final cured result seems very good. It also responds well to swirling or dabbing in 2 or 3 or 4 colors to create a variety of marble-like or fire-like effects. I wasnt sure if the acrylic paint was going to be an issue I hadnt heard anyone talking about it, just pigments and the drained oil based paints; and maybe there is a problem I havent come across that someone will tell me about but so far looks good as far as i can see. Of course my craftsmanship is still a lot to be desired but i'm having a blast learning. I posted a few pics to see the results using the acrylic artist paints - not very good photographer either but hopefully good enough to give you the idea. Thanks

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Hi, Steven

I haven't tried that brand of acrylic. I've tried two others, though. Both of them immediately turned the epoxy into a real snotty nightmare that I couldn't even work with. Maybe I'll have to try the third time with your brand. I do think the "acrylic" paints are touch and go at best in at least some cases; maybe you've found one that'll work well, though.

Putter
Williston, ND

Putter,
Liquitex tube colors have the strongest concentration of pigment as opposed to the paint they sell in jars. Liquitex is a high grade brand of Acrylic and their tubes of metalllic gold and silver are very good. Having worked in a major art supply years ago I know a bit about various paints. I would think you will get your best results from mixing pure pigments in to epoxy. The better grade oil paints are particularly rich in pigment but they come at a very high price; especially in some colors. I plan to fool around with the process soon. It seems rich with possibilities. I will always think of you as having lit the flame of interest in marbling. Dave

Thanks, Dave. It's my understanding that the powdered pigments CAN be the purest form of pigment; I believe some higher grade artist's paints and the "hardware" store pigments are a good second choice to these.
The powdered pigments are spendy to say the least.

Putter
Williston, ND

Thanks for all the responses. Can anyone recommend a particular dry pigment? I will give the Testor's a try also. I am assuming you are not using the acrylic Testor's paints. Again, thanks for the info. Tightlines

I've looked at a few and settled on Pearl Ex by Jaquard's.

Putter
Williston, ND