I have a rod totally finished and the epoxy used was a "bad batch" according to the maker that has already tested it. The epoxy-rod wrapping-will not dry and it was suggested to "recoat" the epoxy with "good" epoxy. I did this and it set up. However the outer film-new epoxy-is set, the under poor epoxy did not and it's still soft after 2 days.

My plans are to remove the guides, buttwrap, and start over as this rod is for a customer and I just don't like any imperfections. This is a Cascade RX-7 blank in matte clear-if that matters (will the solivent break down the rods color?). My plans are to use a solivent to break down the stickyness and wipe the rod clean for a fresh new start. What solivent should I use? and might it be possible to save the wrappings? ...or am I going about this totally wrong?

Help! :-)

DR

non/slow setting finish is almost always caused by improper mixing (unmixed finished on the side of the cup, ratio off, not mixed long enough, etc. I'm sure it can happen but I have never run across a "bad batch". I would give it more time as What you did (apply a second coat) is the standard "Fix" and should work fine.

Mike

Mike,

I knew that was coming, and I agree! Only all my epoxy is mixed with syringes and done properly. As I stated, the manufacturer called it "bad batch" as it would not set no matter how properly it was done.

Here's what I did and it worked: I took soilvent and removed the wet coat down to the 1st coat that did set-different bottles and brand-then scuffed with soapy water and 1500 grit sand paper, dried it, and re-coated. It's turning as I type and looks very well.

Thanks!

DR

use mild heat to soften the epoxy. use a very sharp razor blade and cut on top of the guide foot. position the razor blade like you are trying to plane it off. after you have cut thrue the thread on top of the guide foot the wrap should then peel off. what is left can usually be removed with denatured alcohol. be very careful not to scratch the blank.

Who was the manufacturer? In all the years I've been doing this I've never heard of a bad batch. This could be a first.

If it is for a customer take it all off and redo it

This so called "bad batch" did not come from the manufacturer. It may have come from a distributor or other cog in the distribution process - but it did not come from the firm that manufactured the resin/hardener. There is in reality no such thing as a BAD BATCH. All bad batches originate in the measuring/mixing/blending process that is so necessary to obtain our goal. In the past few years there have appeared in our rod building world numerous new sources of thread epoxies. These new sources are not manufacturers. They merely buy the resin and hardener and put a label on it and become great pretenders. In over a half century of being involved in the world of epoxies, as an engineer, formulator, manufacturer, and involved with distributors, retailers, other manufacturers, salesmen, etc --- I have never heard of, nor have I heard of anybody anywhere that has heard of a BAD BATCH. It simply does not exist and anyone familiar with the distribution process is well aware of this fact. One of these newbie pretenders could easily misread the instructions from his manufacturer and mis-label or in some manner put out the wrong ratio of resin to hardener and send it out to the unknowing public. THIS IS NOT A BAD BATCH. It is merely a foul up on the part of a non knowledgable cog in the distribution process, and goes in the same category as poor measuring/mixing.

My first question to Duane is ---- If you coated over the bad batch with a good mix and the good mix set up as normal, how did you know that the bad batch underneath was still soft.

Ralph