Working on first rod. 9' 4wt. I got enough help from friends to know how to build this one. But, how would you mount "single foot" guides and hold in place in order to wrap the thread, then be able to fine tune it's alignment? If you spot glue it on to begin with you would sure have to get it right the first time!

Recently I've been playing with slices of surgical tubing and really like them, but towards the tip, the ID isn't small enough so I still use thin strips of blue masking tape on those. What I usually do is cut a strip no wider then half the length of the guide foot, stick the middle on the guide foot close to the leg, then set it in place and pull the tape down over the blank. when your wraps reach the tape, pull it off and finish the wrap.

Jim,

I used a little bit of flex coat guide foot adhesive. It's like a glue stick-- just heat the guide foot, place the foot on the stick, then apply it to the blank. The bond is very easy to break once the wrap is finished and you need to "fine tune" the alignment. Some don't like it, but I think it may provide a small "cushion" in case there are a couple very small burrs that you miss when grinding the guide feet. Just my .02

John

jim, go to the electrical section of your hardware store and buy a package of the smallest electrical zip ties. they are only about 1/8" wide. they hold the guides on very well but allow you to move them around. they won't scratch the blank. when i tighten them down i clip the tag off so it does not get in the way. i wrap the guide up to the tie and then clip the tie off by using a small pair of diagonal cutting pliers on the little square slot thingy that holds the tie together. you can buy them in packages of 100 for a buck or two. give them a try.

Cut a thin strip of masking tape, less than half the length of the guide foot and about two inches long. Fold over both ends to make two small non-sticky handles. Stick the guide, near the ring, to the middle of this strip, then position the guide on the blank by holding onto and pulling down on the tape handles. (The main trick is to put the tape on the guide first, before you put the guide on the blank.) Press the tape to the sides of the blank, but do not wrap it around it. Start the wrap, as you reach the tape pull it off (rather, peel it off) by the handles. Finish the wrap (preferably with a Forhan lock), align, epoxy, no sweat.

I buy bags of kids rubber bands. Cut them in half and ty them onto the blank with a double knot. I start from the tip and ty several inches above where it will be, then slide it down. Wet a little and they slide easy. I can also get them to fit the tiny tips of blanks.

i'm using the flex coat guide adhesive but have used little rubber bands in the past. some use dental "rubber bands," i've used the little ones for girls designed for pony tails, found in a target where you'd find hair brushes and combs. just snip them free when you need to.

eric
fresno, ca.

Any trick to using teh guide foot adhesive? Too much and it oozes out, too little, it doesn't hold well.

The trick to using the Flex Coat hot glue is to heat the guide foot and glue stick at the same time, rub the guide foot on the glue stick and then wipe the foot on the stick to remove extra glue. Take your index finger and thumb and wipe the sides of the guide foot to remove any extra glue there. Gently flame the guide foot and stick the guide on the blank. I learned this from Roger Seiders when he was teaching me how to build rods about 24 years ago. I have not used tape since.

Learn to use the method Ellis is describing and you can save a lot of time and effort. When the guides are wrapped the flexcoat adhesive remains pliable enough to allow for some minor alignment tweeking.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

i use those small rubber bands used for Dental appliances (Braces). Just wrap them around a couple times and snip off

AH, now I see. After teh glue gets on teh guide, re-heat it. I was trying to heat it, then rush to get it on the blank. Makes much more sense now. Who'd've thought it could be that much common sense?

I've tried the guide foot stick and never could get the hang of it. I can easily tape 3 to 4 guides, including cutting the strips, in the time it takes me to get one glued on the right way. I think it's like so much of everything else that we do. When you learn a certain way to mount guides, wrap them, use a finish, what type of finish you use, how you finish cork/wood, or find a way that works for you, and you do it for a while, it can be hard to change.

The point Jim, is that there are many areas where there is no "correct" or "better" way to do stuff. It's all about what you like working with. Try all the different methods and see what you like. That's part of the fun of this, seeing what other people do and experimenting and coming up with new things yourself.

i use latex bands i got at [www.myshelties.com] i use 3/16 & 1/4 size 1000 for 9 bucks

Thanks for all the replies. Man I learned a lot of ways to do it. I even have a bunch of those small tyraps. Like the tape ideas also. I got it made with all those methods. Thanks again.

.....cut 1/4" tape into 1/8" strips, wrap and snip off the tape.

I get "fuel line" tubing at a model/hobby shop (iit comes in various dianeters and is really inexpensive) I just use a razor blade and cutting board and cut up a years supply in a very short time. Just slip as many as you need down the blank before you put the tip top on (I put a few extra on just in case) They make it real easy to adjust/move guides and strong/tight enough for test casting/static distribution test. whe wrapping all you have to do is touch them with a razor blade and they fly off. The best/easiest method that have found so far. Get 2 different sizes so you can stay tight anywhere on any rod

Mike

Just finished my first rod. Used single foot guides, and the Flexcoat guide foot adhesive was great. I'll never do it any other way. Strong enough to stay in place while I ran a line through the guides to double check alignment and wrap, but a snap to remove and reposition if needed.