Hello

I have what may sound like a strange question however let me first explain why I'm asking. Basically I'm now finished building my first rod (as of about 20 mins ago). I bought some high build epoxy for my finish. Problem is I found that it was really goopy and didn't really spread well. The brush seemed to push the finish too much. It could have been the pressue I was using and if there is some trick as far as that is considered by all means let me know. I initially decided to go with two coats of the finish and try to apply it lightly the first time since this issue was occurring. But then when I came to put on the second coat the same problem seemed to be occuring so I decided maybe the best technique was to slop it on and spread it as evenly as possible then let my 6 rpm dryer do the rest of the evening of the finish. While the finish isn't set yet I get a feeling I'm not going to be pleased.

Right now I only have as far as equipment is my 6 rpm dryer and a very simple manual rod wrapper so I used my dryer to rotate my rod as I applied the finish. It seemed to me 6 rpm just simply isn't fast enough to move the epoxy along as to create a nice even coat.

At what speed do most people apply their finish? Is the speed at which you apply your finish dependent on the vicosity of the epoxy ie whether it's high build or lite?

Thanks for the input
Sam

Samer,

As to me, 6 rpm drying motor is good enough. I myself still use 2 rpm one and have no problems with getting even wrap finish. The only "but": I use Regular/Lite epoxies ans have no idea how it works with High Build finishes.

Pavel,
Moscow, RU

I like thinner finishes. Less problems. I use glass coat but thin it. I find the bubbles release easyer.

I use high build to make my rods. Did you heat up the epoxy before putting it on? I usually let the hardener and resin sit in the sun for about 20-30 minutes until it gets fairly hot, I would say about 95-100 degrees F. On one occasion I heated it up in the oven too, but be very careful not to overheat it. I set the oven at 150 degrees, then put the resin and hardener in for about 2 minutes. I later took this a step further by also heating up the foil I mix the resin and hardener on too, but thats not really necessary, just make sure you dont mix on a cold surface.

This makes the epoxy flow much better, I was amazed at how much easier it is to work with. Not to mention this keeps out the air bubbles too.

Hello Samer
High Build epoxy is formulated to be thicker than Lite epoxy. With a little practice you can achieve the look that you desire using either system. By letting the epoxy flow off the brush onto the wrap you will have a smoother finish and less bubbles to deal with. Your turning speed is just fine and you can even put your finish on turning the rod by hand. Perhaps you will find an article on my web site helpful to understand how to flow the epoxy on. There are several pictures showing this technique that is used by most folks wether a brush or spatula is used.
Look under Navigate and select Products to see a blurb I have done to advertise spaulas that I make. That aside it contains information that I think help understand applying epoxy. There is also a very good article in the library of this forum.
Sincerely Joe Kassuba
His Rod Shop

His Rod Shop
Joe Kassuba

i used flex coat high build for the first time on my last finishing project; i'd been using FC lite build on the previous 5 fly rods. it came out nice. i did not thin it in anyway. instead of a brush like i normally use, i cut up one of those plastic "credit" cards i receive in the mail all the time, the junk mail stuff. i simply cut a section about a 1/4 inch wide and simply and alternately dropped and smeared it on from above.

i plan to give it one more coat, probably a coat of lite build just for kicks, see what happens in combining the two formulas.

i also use a 6rpm dryer motor to apply, although with the previous rod, i turned the motor off and cranked the chuck by hand as it applied the finish. i'll try that again sometime soon before deciding which method i like best.

eric
fresno, ca.

Having much experience with the application of epoxy on the wraps and this is on the "Oh man, I messed it up again, but a different way this time" side of the application process. I can tell you that I find the easiest way to apply epoxy is....(some mentioned already)
1. Heat up the mixtures
2. Mix well, but not TOO well meaning too long. (time is crucial)
3 Spread out mixture on foil to eliminate bubbles
4. Use a spreader like spatula or (like I do) use a brush but don't brush it hard (thus introducing bubbles)
Any epoxy coating can be applied thin or thick depending on the amount and your techniques. I use FlexCoat High Build and Gudebrod High Build, I apply a first coat thin and work it into the thread well (brushing it in this time) and blow on the coating to eliminate bubbles even in the thinest of coats they can happen. On the second coat, if I desire I high build "football" look, I'll goop it on and look for incidental bubbles to eliminate by blowing. Most often, I like to just apply a decent second coat with the highbuild formula and let it settle to a moderate thickness. I feel this looks best.

If you have thread poking around or dust you need to get rid of, I usually apply two coats....let them cure fully at least 24 hours and then sand them down with a jewelers fine file. Then the final coat seals the epoxy and covers the marks made by the file....

Any other questions, email me Defjam@core.com and I'll fill you in on all the right ways to do it because the first (and second) times around I did it completely wrong! Isn't that the best way to learn?!!!

Domenic

Having much experience with the application of epoxy on the wraps and this is on the "Oh man, I messed it up again, but a different way this time" side of the application process. I can tell you that I find the easiest way to apply epoxy is....(some mentioned already)
1. Heat up the mixtures
2. Mix well, but not TOO well meaning too long. (time is crucial)
3 Spread out mixture on foil to eliminate bubbles
4. Use a spreader like spatula or (like I do) use a brush but don't brush it hard (thus introducing bubbles)
Any epoxy coating can be applied thin or thick depending on the amount and your techniques. I use FlexCoat High Build and Gudebrod High Build, I apply a first coat thin and work it into the thread well (brushing it in this time) and blow on the coating to eliminate bubbles even in the thinest of coats they can happen. On the second coat, if I desire I high build "football" look, I'll goop it on and look for incidental bubbles to eliminate by blowing. Most often, I like to just apply a decent second coat with the highbuild formula and let it settle to a moderate thickness. I feel this looks best.

If you have thread poking around or dust you need to get rid of, I usually apply two coats....let them cure fully at least 24 hours and then sand them down with a jewelers fine file. Then the final coat seals the epoxy and covers the marks made by the file....

Any other questions, email me Defjam@core.com and I'll fill you in on all the right ways to do it because the first (and second) times around I did it completely wrong! Isn't that the best way to learn?!!!

Domenic

Thanks for everyone's reply. I hope to have better results next time. Everything is dry now and it seems that I have some pockets where the epoxy lumped up. Right now my theory is it was caused by the warping in the rod because I didn't see these lumps yesterday but I guess at this point there isn't much I can do.

Thanks again
Sam